Reviewed by
Michael Cullen
Panormos is a small, pretty-much undiscovered village on the north coast of Crete, near the historic town of Rethymnon. It’s the kind of place you could easily drive past, were it not for the fact that it hides one of the island’s most charming guesthouses. This 1890s residence was built for a merchant of aromatic kitra (grapefruit-sized lemons), which were exported, along with carobs and olive oil, from its sheltered port.
Twenty years ago it was lovingly restored by wine producer Antonis and his sister Korina in memory of childhood holidays. Step through the ornate gateway and you find yourself in an enchanting courtyard, shaded by a venerable pine tree and scented by gardenia. Swallows skim the pool and wood pigeons coo. Behind blue shutters, 5 elegant bedrooms reveal polished parquet floors, beamed eaves, Persian rugs and antique iron four-posters; one has a balcony, another a terrace. On your doorstep are 18 tavernas and 2 sandy beaches; the bus for Rethymnon (22km) is a short stroll away. One of our favourite beachside places in Crete for families and couples alike.
Twenty years ago it was lovingly restored by wine producer Antonis and his sister Korina in memory of childhood holidays. Step through the ornate gateway and you find yourself in an enchanting courtyard, shaded by a venerable pine tree and scented by gardenia. Swallows skim the pool and wood pigeons coo. Behind blue shutters, 5 elegant bedrooms reveal polished parquet floors, beamed eaves, Persian rugs and antique iron four-posters; one has a balcony, another a terrace. On your doorstep are 18 tavernas and 2 sandy beaches; the bus for Rethymnon (22km) is a short stroll away. One of our favourite beachside places in Crete for families and couples alike.
Highs
- The secluded courtyard, with its delicious greenery, prettily furnished pool and romantic candlelight
- Charmingly decorated bedrooms, authentically Greek in style
- Intimate atmosphere, with a maximum of 12 guests
- The breakfasts are superb, with homemade cheese pies and fresh squeezed juices
- The village of Panormos: a perfect size, with plenty of tavernas and 2 sand beaches
- Easy access to all of central and western Crete - the bus stop is a 5-minute walk away, so a car isn't essential
Lows
- There’s a minimum stay of 4 nights (though that should be no hardship)
- The smallest room, Nefeli, is a little poky by comparison with the others, with a private but separate bathroom down the stairs
- The double beds are quite narrow
- Outside midsummer the owners spend most of their time in Heraklion, but the housekeepers from the village know the ropes well enough
- The bar and snack service are only open sporadically
Best time to go
The house is open April to October. Greek Easter is a massive religious and social event, while midsummer sees more in the way of culture, music etc.
Our top tips
If you're looking for one base from which to explore all of western and central Crete, this is your best bet. Either hire a car - Rethymno is 15 mins away, Heraklion 45 mins and Chania 75 mins; or go by bus - there's a stop 2 mins' walk away, and buses come buy at least hourly. Given the wealth of things to see, and the prettiness of Panormos itself, you could easily spend 2 weeks here. And that would give you time to check out almost all of the village's restaurants!