Villa La Diouana
Oualidia, Essaouira & Atlantic Coast, Morocco
Reviewed by
Guy Hunter Watts
The small fishing village of Oualidia and its tidal lagoon, home to Morocco’s best oyster beds and some of its most diverse birdlife, remains one of the country’s best-kept secrets. In recent years it has begun to attract visitors during summer but for the rest of the year you could find no more beautiful nor peaceful a place to commune with the ocean.
James von Leyden was smitten by the place’s rare beauty and, on impulse, bought what must be the best positioned house in the village, on a high bluff looking out across the lagoon. He and his wife have given the house and its clutch of bedrooms a new lease of life thanks to a masterful refurbishment which placed the accent on stylish simplicity, solid comfort and the celebration of those exquisite lagoon views. To sit in La Diouana’s cosy sitting room, a fire burning in the hearth, watching the fishing boats returning with their catch, is simply inspirational and the reason, perhaps, why guests (and families in particular) return year after year to this unforgettable house.
James von Leyden was smitten by the place’s rare beauty and, on impulse, bought what must be the best positioned house in the village, on a high bluff looking out across the lagoon. He and his wife have given the house and its clutch of bedrooms a new lease of life thanks to a masterful refurbishment which placed the accent on stylish simplicity, solid comfort and the celebration of those exquisite lagoon views. To sit in La Diouana’s cosy sitting room, a fire burning in the hearth, watching the fishing boats returning with their catch, is simply inspirational and the reason, perhaps, why guests (and families in particular) return year after year to this unforgettable house.
Highs
- The views across the lagoon, sea and sky, are truly spectacular
- The staff, including housekeeper Abdillah and his wife Fatima, couldn't be kinder
- Superb for families with kids of all ages
- The beautiful outdoor pool overlooking the lagoon, which has a built-in paddling pool for little 'uns
- Oualidia has some of the best fish restaurants in Morocco. And its oysters, which come straight from the lagoon, are legendary
Lows
- Oualidia is a fair way from both Casablanca and Marrakech, but transfers can be arranged if you prefer not to drive
- A 7-night minimum during Easter, half-term, summer holidays and Christmas/New Year (3-night min at all other times)
- The stairs leading up to the Penthouse are tadelakt and can be slippery, so care should be taken with children and elderly
Best time to go
July and August are peak season - the village fills up with marrakchi families, and night clubs and camping sites go full tilt, so if you're looking for a peaceful retreat try and avoid these 2 months. On the other hand, the atmosphere is friendly and colourful, and sociable families can make many friends. At any other time of year the village is much more of a "secret gem", especially in the spring when wildflowers cover the hillsides leading down to the lagoon and when it’s warm enough to swim.
Our top tips
Make the most of the location and have the staff organise a delicious picnic on the beach, with tables and fresh seafood. The kids can run and play while the adults enjoy home-cooked food with their feet in the sand.