Zerohotel
Valparaiso, Santiago & Central Valley, Chile
Reviewed by
Emma Whiteacre
Overlooking Valparaíso bay, this converted 3-storey house, built in 1880, has been carefully restored to create a spacious and elegant boutique. Original features are retained, and modern twists add a touch of 21st-century style. The rooms are homely and inviting, the common areas cool and laid-back. Perched atop Cerro Alegre - 'Cheerful Hill' - the hotel is in the heart of Valparaíso's hilly old town, and shares its charm. This UNESCO World Heritage site comes complete with cobbled streets, colourful façades and arty murals, and provides easy access via one of the dozens of century-old ascensores - funicular railways - down to the hustle and bustle of the port and town centre below.
This is the perfect base from which to discover this vibrant port city, which buzzes with an energy sometimes lacking in the neighbouring capital, Santiago. After a tough morning exploring, crash on your bed for a siesta while a warm breeze wafts through the French doors. Later, help yourself to a glass of wine, settle back into a wicker chair on the bougainvillea-festooned terrace and watch the long shadows of the sunset move across the bay below.
This is the perfect base from which to discover this vibrant port city, which buzzes with an energy sometimes lacking in the neighbouring capital, Santiago. After a tough morning exploring, crash on your bed for a siesta while a warm breeze wafts through the French doors. Later, help yourself to a glass of wine, settle back into a wicker chair on the bougainvillea-festooned terrace and watch the long shadows of the sunset move across the bay below.
Highs
- Location location location. The solid foundations of the 19th-century houses in this district enabled them to withstand a massive earthquake in 1906, unlike most buildings in the city. The area is historically significant as a result - not to mention very trendy
- Guests are trusted to settle their dues later at the well-stocked honesty bar
- Classic architecture and superior craftsmanship give the building a strong character, enhanced by beautiful original features - coving, French window frames, wooden floorboards and stained glass windows
- The lush Winter Garden breakfast room on the first floor with its panoramic views is picturesque and inspiring
Lows
- The hotel has no restaurant, but there are plenty of top-notch local eateries to discover
- While the best rooms enjoy fabulous harbour views, some rooms at the top have a less privileged view of a corrugated iron warehouse
- Parking is a nightmare in Valparaíso, but the hotel has 7 parking spots set aside which can be booked in advance
Best time to go
Valparaíso enjoys a temperate climate year-round, with an average temperature of 20C. The coldest months are July and August, although the winter is mild. Avoid May, which is the wettest month. Viña del Mar's wine festival in January and Valpo's film festival in August may provide additional draws.
Our top tips
If you'd like a good book recommendation for relaxing on the terrace - try Isabel Allende's Daughter of Fortune, part of which is set in the city. It paints a fascinating picture of 19th-century Chile.