You may not have heard of Laconia, in the southeast corner of the Peloponnese, but it hides some lovely stretches of coastline fringed with citrus groves, shallow coves and fishing villages whose pace of life is suitably laconic (see, you have heard of it). And there are some stunning sites, too: the medieval rock-castle of Monemvasia, the handsome harbour of Gythion, the sand-dune beaches of Elafonisos, the Byzantine chapels of hilltop Geraki.
At the centre of these four gems, sitting on a sea-washed spit beside its own private sickle of dark sand, is this surprisingly un-Spartan hotel (Sparta - yes, that Sparta - is the region's main town). There's an impressive double-height lobby with lamps floating like blobs of mercury, 37 spacious bedrooms and suites with taupe palettes and sea views, plus a subterranean spa with its own little pool. But life here takes place outdoors: around the freshwater pool with its thatched bar, the cushioned sofas on their hard-won strip of lawn, the dining tables beautifully laid with candlesticks and bottles of Alas-branded wine. It's only 20 paces to the hotel's little beach, whose enclosed waters are safe and sandy. In every direction you gaze over languid seas to the silhouetted mountains of the Mani, behind which the sun sinks with reliably Instagrammable golds.
Highs
- Kids will love it here, parents too: upbeat staff, good affordable food, massages to ease you into holiday mood
- The 2-bedroom senior suites have plenty of space for a family, the jacuzzi suites are great for a couple
- It's a 15-minute walk to the sleepy fishing harbour of Elea, with its bobbing boats and handful of summer tavernas and cafés
- There's just enough local culture to keep curious parents happy, and more than enough beaches to please the kids
- It's fun being with mostly Greek guests; barely another Brit in sight
Lows
- The hotel's beach is small with dark sand, but nicer ones are a short drive away
- Expect modern architecture, with a touch of bling in the common areas
- The pool can get loud with music, kids and visiting locals in high season
- WiFi, we're told, can be patchy
- It's a 2-hour drive from Kalamata airport, 3½ hours from Athens (consider a stopover in Nafplio)
Best time to go
We love May-June and September-early October: a perfect balance between cool mornings (for exploring) and warmer afternoons (for swimming and lazing).
July and August can get fairly busy with Greek families and occasional weddings or parties, but never as busy as the islands; and the combination of sea breeze and air-con keeps the hotel pretty cool (if not, the pool and sea are not far away!).
July and August can get fairly busy with Greek families and occasional weddings or parties, but never as busy as the islands; and the combination of sea breeze and air-con keeps the hotel pretty cool (if not, the pool and sea are not far away!).
Our top tips
Rooms come in all shapes and sizes, from Classics (for a couple) to Senior Suites (for families) - see our summary. Ground-floor rooms give direct access to pool and grounds, but you might have people walking past from time to time. Avoid rooms 204-6 near reception, which can get noisy at busy times. All have anatomical mattresses, pillow menus, bedside reading lights, bathrobes and toiletries, tea and coffee facilities.
Our guests' ratings...
Based on 5 independent reviews from i-escape guests
Wonderful location, very peaceful setting looking out to sea. Easy walk to village. Large room ( family suite) sea view, very comfy bed / linen. So much food, great breakfast buffet, we swapped a few evening meals for lunches (half board). The pool was freezing, but the sea was fantastic (Late Oct). We are a family of four and had a really brilliant break at Alas. Lovely location, nice hotel, friendly staff. All round, a good experience.
We had a great stay at Alas last week. It’s well designed with great access to a small sandy beach and a lovely pool. The staff are very friendly and helpful and very welcoming. The spa treatments were excellent and we enjoyed using the steam room, sauna and jacuzzi. The food was good but a bit limited for one of us who is vegetarian and gluten free - lots of the non meat options use pastry or are pasta or pizza. We enjoyed visiting Monemvasia about 45 minutes away and would definitely return there on another visit.
Excellent welcome, well trained friendly staff. The hotel is clean and very well presented. Very efficient service. In our opinion, Elia and its coast are not that special. Didn't love the musak in public areas. It did feel well named as a resort hotel. It simply wasn’t quite our personal style and we wouldn’t return for that reason, and for the setting. However it is a well run place which would suit others.
Great for snorkelling. A lot of space and sunbeds to choose from. Fantastic Breakfast buffet. Beach showers and Gym need a bit of love. Drinks selection at the lovely bar could also be better.
Rooms are comfortable but bathrooms a little small.
Food is delicious, but on half board we were getting quite bored of the evening menu by the end of our stay.
The whole area was very quiet during our stay (May 22) – apparently the season had not yet started, so it felt very calm and exclusive. The setting is beautiful, and swimming pontoon off the rocks was a real favourite. Crystal clear waters – my daughter spotted an octopus on one snorkelling foray – and amazing weather made for a great stay. The local village is an easy walk to additional restaurants if you want, and the massage in the spa was fab and really good value.
Feedback is only from guests who have booked and stayed through i-escape