With so much coastline in Greece, you'd think it would be easy to find a stylish little cottage by a secluded beach. But it's not. Most islands have rows of cheap identikit pensions, or a busy road between you and the water, or both. But this isn't an island; it's the southern Peloponnese, a 3-hour drive from Athens, way off the island-hoppers' radar. And the beach is pebbly (though the waters are gloriously clear). Both of which go some way to explain how there comes to be such a hidden gem on this lovely sweep of azure sea, fringed by those famous olive groves and backed by cloud-capped Mt. Taygetus.
But it doesn't explain the wonderful, unexpected, almost Scandinavian chic-ness of the interiors - pastel shades, gleaming kitchenettes, contemporary sofas, white-painted eaves and pure pine floors. That's down to owner Stavros' obsessive quest for the best: it took him 5 years to build the first 10 cottages, stone by stone, with another 14 completed later. He and wife Fani also run the taverna by the beach - which, unsurprisingly perhaps, is among the best in the region.
Highs
- The privacy: tucked among shady olive groves, each cottage has a secluded terrace, some with glimpses of sea
- It's 2-3 minutes' walk to plunge into some of the cleanest seas in the Med
- Try Fani's superb Greek cuisine at lunchtime (and put your self-catering to shame)
- We love the fantastic hiking trails behind Kardamyli - wild flowers, limestone gorges, snow-dusted peaks
- The laid-back fishing village Kardamyli, 1km away, is a long-standing favourite: I've been coming regularly for over 20 years
Lows
- The restaurant stops serving dinner around 6-7pm in low season; and can get a little busy with lunchers in summer
- It's hard to reach: a 3.5-hour drive from Athens airport or 1 hour from Kalamata airport (but flights to Kalamata are limited)
- The beach is pebbly, but there are sandy beaches at nearby Stoupa for the kids
Best time to go
April, May, late September and October are the ideal times, in our opinion: warm but rarely hot, with empty beaches and cheaper flights (except April). In spring there are wonderful wild flowers, in autumn the sea is much warmer - take your pick. In midsummer (mid June - early Sep) there are a few discerning Greek tourists, and some other i-escapers, but it's never really crowded. In winter (Nov – March) there are some lovely, cool, clear days and some not so lovely, wintry ones, but it rarely gets properly cold (i.e. below 10 celsius).
Our top tips
Bring sandals for the pebbly beach, boots and long trousers if you plan to hike, and a copy of the Sunflower "Landscapes of the Peloponnese" (available in the village bookshop) for local circular walks. History buffs should pick up a copy of Patrick Leigh-Fermor’s book ‘The Mani'.
Location
Elies Hotel is 1km outside the coastal village of Kardamyli (also spelled Kardamili), in the southern Peloponnese. It's about 3.5 hours' drive from Athens, and 45 minutes south of Kalamata (or 1 hour from Kalamata airport).
By Air
Kalamata (45km) or Athens (310km). Click on the links below for a list of airlines.
From the airports
From Kalamata airport you could get a taxi to Elies (45km / 45 mins), and from Athens you could conceivably take a bus (4 hours); but most likely you will want a hire car to explore the area and to faciliate shopping. See our car rental recommendations.
Detailed directions will be sent to you when you book through i-escape.com
More on getting to Greece and getting around
Airports:
- Kalamata 45.0 km KLX
- Athens, Eleftherios Venizelos 310.0 km ATH
Other:
- Beach 0.0 km
- Shops 1.0 km
- Restaurant 1.0 km
Our guests' ratings...
Based on 47 independent reviews from i-escape guests
It’s glorious. The staff are lovely, the place is so beautiful and the hospitality is so well thought out. It’s amazing.
Elies remains a fantastic, great value, family-friendly, relaxing offering - built around a winning, laid-back but brilliantly serviced B&B formula (and what great self-service breakfasts they are). Lunch is excellent as ever (though new, different evening menu not so - and already mentioned to owner Stavros who seems to be considering reverting to old uniform day-long approach…) Nearby, Old Kardamyli restaurant was great new find. And kayaking now being offered by ExploreMessinia in small old village port very good family activity.
What a lovely place to stay. We flew into Kalamata airport and hired a car for two weeks. The alternative would have been a taxi which would have been about 50 euros each way.The destination was easily found. Fantastic accommodation and we were upgraded to a two storey apartment by the owner Stavros. Everything was in excellent order and the room was cleaned every day and bed and towels changed every other day. The basics of coffee, butter, fruit etc were also topped up daily. Fantastic array of breakfast items every day to help yourself and take back to your room. Great restaurant on site and only a 2 minute walk to the sea. The town is less than a mile away and a level walk. Great restaurants in town and although we were there for the latter half of October only a couple had closed for the season. Would we go again? We are already thinking about next year and you can't get a better recommendation than that. 5 stars all round.
Great place to unwind set amongst olive groves with the crystal clear sea a stone’s throw away and idyllic Kardamyli a short stroll away.
Elies could not have been a better introduction to Greece. And know that I’ll be back, both to the country and also probably here. The combination of attention to detail and the relaxed atmosphere was perfect. The setting gorgeous, the sea clear and warm and refreshing, the food, the everything really. 5 stars all round. Thanks for being part of finally getting me here.
Usual high standards at Elies. Wouldn't hesitate to book again. Superb.
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