Kyrimai Hotel
Gerolimenas, Peloponnese, Greece
Reviewed by
Jane Foster
Founded by the Kyrimis family in 1870, this stone mansion is perched right on Gerolimenas bay, close to the tip of the Mani peninsular. Back then, it transformed this sleepy village into a busy little port; from the quay out front, Maniot specialities such as quails were shipped as far afield as Marseille. Still owned by the same family after all these years, the mansion and its adjoining warehouses underwent a 4-year renovation project to reopen as a luxury boutique hotel, and the result is a delight.
You enter through a stone archway, and find a world of peace and refinement, combining old-fashioned charm with modern comforts. The vaulted wine store serves as reception, and terraces on various levels give access to the 22 rooms, all furnished with antiques. Out front, you can sunbathe on or swim from the jetty; there's also a sparkling turquoise pool. Kyrimai makes a great base for exploring the region's medieval tower houses, Byzantine churches, rugged mountains and spectacular coast. It stays open all year, and must be lovely in winter, too, with log fires blazing as waves crash against the outer walls, and spray from the sea reaches the upper-floor windows.
You enter through a stone archway, and find a world of peace and refinement, combining old-fashioned charm with modern comforts. The vaulted wine store serves as reception, and terraces on various levels give access to the 22 rooms, all furnished with antiques. Out front, you can sunbathe on or swim from the jetty; there's also a sparkling turquoise pool. Kyrimai makes a great base for exploring the region's medieval tower houses, Byzantine churches, rugged mountains and spectacular coast. It stays open all year, and must be lovely in winter, too, with log fires blazing as waves crash against the outer walls, and spray from the sea reaches the upper-floor windows.
Highs
- Right on the water's edge in a sheltered bay, with sublime views over the open sea
- Total peace
- An excellent restaurant with a waterside terrace: creative Mediterranean cuisine and fine wines
- Highly personalised service from welcoming staff
- Romantic rooms with a historic atmosphere but mod cons
Lows
- Remote (though that's half the appeal). It's literally at the end of the Mani peninsular so it's a long drive to get here
- Some might find Gerolimenas too sleepy; just a couple of shops and cafes, backed by rocky mountains
- No proper beaches within walking distance; just jetties to swim off
- You'll need a car to get here and around
Best time to go
For most people, the best seasons are spring and autumn, when the weather should be warm and sunny - ideal for hiking - and you're more likely to find cheap flights. If you hope to swim, come between June and September. Just bear in mind that although the Mani remains relatively off-the-beaten path, it is popular with Greek visitors in peak season (July and August), when temperatures can soar to over 100°F (38°C) and the beaches get busy.
Our top tips
Don't miss Diros Cave (15km), near Areopolis - you enter by boat to see a vast cavern filled with amazing stalactites and stalagmites.