Citta dei Nicliani
Koita, Peloponnese, Greece
Reviewed by
Jane Foster
Run by the Sepsas family - Ilias and Tania, and their son Panagiotis - this small hotel in the southern Peloponnese is a treasure. Back in 2006, after several years of living and working abroad, Ilias purchased a stone tower house dating from 1750 in his native Mani. A careful and sensitive renovation project ensued, along with the addition of an extension in traditional Maniot style, and an 8-room boutique hotel was born.
As you step through the arched entrance into the cobbled courtyard, peace and harmony prevail. A stone terrace - with white canvas director's chairs and sunbeds, a shallow pond, bougainvillea, cacti, fragrant lavender bushes, terracotta urns and the family cats - affords blissful views over the surrounding olive groves. And you couldn't ask for a more dramatic location. Here in the shadow of the rugged heights of Mt Taygetus, the Deep Mani is stark, rocky and totally unspoilt. Koita is one of the region's oldest and best-known villages, famed for its traditional Maniot tower houses, built by feuding families between the 14th and 19th centuries. Today, it couldn't be more tranquil - and neither could this hotel.
As you step through the arched entrance into the cobbled courtyard, peace and harmony prevail. A stone terrace - with white canvas director's chairs and sunbeds, a shallow pond, bougainvillea, cacti, fragrant lavender bushes, terracotta urns and the family cats - affords blissful views over the surrounding olive groves. And you couldn't ask for a more dramatic location. Here in the shadow of the rugged heights of Mt Taygetus, the Deep Mani is stark, rocky and totally unspoilt. Koita is one of the region's oldest and best-known villages, famed for its traditional Maniot tower houses, built by feuding families between the 14th and 19th centuries. Today, it couldn't be more tranquil - and neither could this hotel.
Highs
- A beautifully restored building, with a serene outdoor space
- Just 8 romantic rooms, combining historic details with modern comforts
- Excellent value
- Delicious, traditional food prepared from fresh regional produce, and widely recognised as one of Greece's Top 10 Hotels for wine
- The Deep Mani is wild and unspoilt, offering a total escape from commercial tourism. Come here to hike, bike and relax
Lows
- Koita is well off the beaten track and poorly served by public transport, so you'll want a car
- You'll need to book well in advance during the main holiday season
- No bathtubs or twin rooms
Best time to go
For an active holiday of hiking and mountain biking, spring or autumn are the best times. The weather should be warm and sunny, and you're more likely to find cheap flights during these periods. If you're brave you'll also manage to swim in May, though locals generally wait 'til June. Although the Mani remains relatively off the beaten path, it is popular with Greek visitors in peak season (Jul-Aug), when temperatures can soar to over 38C (100F) and the beaches get busy.
Our top tips
Day-trip to Cape Tenaro (aka Cape Matapan), mainland Europe's southernmost point. Hike 45 minutes to the lighthouse, and you'll pass the ruins of the Temple of Poseidon on your way.