The Kardamyli Hideaway
Kardamyli, Peloponnese, Greece
Reviewed by
Michael Cullen
Hidden away in the southern Peloponnese, the grown-up fishing village of Kardamyli is an utterly charming spot. Tucked in the shadow of giant Mt. Taygetus, halfway down the rugged Mani peninsula, it looks west into the placid Messinian Sea. Sunsets are fabulous here. The area is rich with ancient villages, wild flowers, limestone gorges, frescoed Byzantine chapels, silvery olive groves, hiking paths and clear blue seas.
Back in medieval times, local chieftains built stone tower houses several storeys high, with small windows and walled courtyards, to gain supremacy. This is based around one such tower, beautifully restored and fused with an adjoining three-storey house, to create a gorgeous holiday home for 4-5. There are three bedrooms (1 double, 1 twin,1 single), a double-height living space, a vaulted kitchen, and outdoor patio dining under the orange trees. It's a few minutes' walk to lovely tavernas and bars, well stocked groceries and boutiques, and the town's pretty horseshoe fishing harbour; a few more to its long, empty beach. A week here - or even 4-5 days if time is tight - will restore your sanity, strength and joie de vivre. Two weeks, and you might want to move in. We certainly did.
Back in medieval times, local chieftains built stone tower houses several storeys high, with small windows and walled courtyards, to gain supremacy. This is based around one such tower, beautifully restored and fused with an adjoining three-storey house, to create a gorgeous holiday home for 4-5. There are three bedrooms (1 double, 1 twin,1 single), a double-height living space, a vaulted kitchen, and outdoor patio dining under the orange trees. It's a few minutes' walk to lovely tavernas and bars, well stocked groceries and boutiques, and the town's pretty horseshoe fishing harbour; a few more to its long, empty beach. A week here - or even 4-5 days if time is tight - will restore your sanity, strength and joie de vivre. Two weeks, and you might want to move in. We certainly did.
Highs
- We love the sympathetic restoration - warm orange stones and old arched doorways combined with contemporary comforts inside
- It's the perfect size for a family of 4-5, with a cot available too
- Rates are very reasonable for a house of this size, especially compared to two or three hotel rooms
- Plus you get a small garden, a dining patio, a sitting room and a kitchen for easy home-cooked meals
- Unlike most holiday villas, you can arrive any day of the week, and stay as long as you like (at least 2 nights)
Lows
- You're towards the back of the village, so views are mostly of neighbouring buildings and the mountains behind
- There's no pool, nor air-con (but portable fans and thick walls do the job)
- Outdoor space is limited to a patio with dining area, and a small walled garden with citrus trees
- The house's layout is quirky, with each of the 3 bedrooms on a different level
- If you can't find a flight to nearby Kalamata, it's a 3.5-hour drive from Athens (mostly on easy motorway)
Best time to go
April, May, September and October are the ideal months in our opinion: warm but rarely hot, with empty beaches and cheaper deals. In spring there are wild flowers, in autumn the sea is warm - take your pick. June is lovely too, but hotter. July and August see a modest influx of (mostly Greek) visitors, but nothing like the crowds you get on the islands. The busiest times are in fact mid May (for the jazz festival) and early October (a boutique literary festival). The house is normally closed from November-March.
Our top tips
Bring beach sandals or jelly shoes as the coast here is mostly pebbly; firm hiking shoes and long trousers if you plan to explore on foot (the terrain is rocky with some prickly shrubs); and buy the Anavasi "Exo Mani 8.1" map and Sunflower "Southern Peloponnese" guidebook before you leave, as the village bookshop has closed.