BanSala
near Koroni, Peloponnese, Greece
Reviewed by
Michael Cullen
This blissfully tranquil, sea-facing Grecian sanctuary has 5 pared-down cottages for 2, set in colourful lawned gardens shaded by olive trees. The cottages are essentially self-catering, with kitchens and secluded terraces for al-fresco breakfast or snacky lunches. There's also a shared pool, a laid-back bar for iced coffees or wines at sunset, and a cheerful welcome from British owner John. Best of all, it’s just 3 minutes to a secluded sandy beach, and 10 minutes’ drive to gorgeous, castle-crowned Koroni, with its handsome pastel houses and waterfront tavernas.
I love this prong of the Peloponnese, with its shimmering olive groves, idyllic coves, Venetian castles (don’t miss Methoni) and untrodden antiquities (ancient Messene springs to mind). If you can grab a flight into Kalamata - 40 minutes away - do it; otherwise it’s 3 hours’ spectacular drive from Athens or Patras. The only issue for parents is that they don’t accept children under 16, but we fully intend to turn that to our advantage and drop ours with grandparents, to enjoy a restorative week in one of Greece’s loveliest - yet least discovered - coastal corners.
I love this prong of the Peloponnese, with its shimmering olive groves, idyllic coves, Venetian castles (don’t miss Methoni) and untrodden antiquities (ancient Messene springs to mind). If you can grab a flight into Kalamata - 40 minutes away - do it; otherwise it’s 3 hours’ spectacular drive from Athens or Patras. The only issue for parents is that they don’t accept children under 16, but we fully intend to turn that to our advantage and drop ours with grandparents, to enjoy a restorative week in one of Greece’s loveliest - yet least discovered - coastal corners.
Highs
- We loved the blissful gardens, with terraced lawns and vivid red bottle-brush trees merging seamlessly into silvery olive groves
- The cottages are cleverly designed, with neat kitchenettes, mosquito-netted windows and secluded terraces for dining
- Such a privilege to have a small sandy beach only 3 mins' walk away, and virtually to yourself outside peak season
- If you tire of that, it’s only a short drive to other beaches, including family- and windsurfer-friendly Memi
Lows
- This is not an area for nightlife or shopping; it's for those who appreciate the buzz of cicadas and uncrowded beaches
- Don't expect hotel-level service: this is essentially self-catering, with a friendly owner on hand
- Since covid, no food or snacks are provided
- No children under 16 accepted - this place is geared towards grown ups
Best time to go
BanSala is normally open from the beginning of May to the end of October. We came in mid May and found it perfect for a tranquil off-season break, with seas just warm enough for a dip, meadows full of spring flowers, and none of the rains that were affecting other parts of Greece. September and October would be equally magical. July and August are busier of course, but with only 5 cottages and plenty of garden space, plus a wide choice of beaches nearby, you won't feel crowded.
Our top tips
If you're interested in local hikes, I can recommend the Sunflower guide to the Southern Peloponnese, which contains a selection of my favourite local hikes short and long, as well as other excursions.