The Kardamyli Beach Cottage
Kardamyli, Peloponnese, Greece
Reviewed by
Michael Cullen
As a Kardamyli aficionado, I must have walked past this spot 100 times, coveting the prime seafront position (one of only a handful on the beachward side of the lane), and wondering how I might renovate the simple three-room shack that stood upon it. And then, on my last visit, as a new gate slid back, I saw that someone else had not only had the same idea, but had done a stunning job.
The someone in question was Dimitris Pastras, from locally based Detale Architects. Recognising that the building's footprint was small, they started with a lovely outdoor living-dining space beneath the pines, and then cleverly reworked the indoor area into a light living-kitchen room and two cosy double bedrooms, both with ensuite shower rooms.
But life is lived outdoors here, and the pine-shaded terrace, with views across gnarled rocks to the gleaming pebbles and blue waters of Ritsa Beach, is the perfect spot. A private path leads to the sea in 2 minutes; grab the SUP or kayak to explore the dramatic coastline; or follow hiking trails from your door to the gorges, hilltop chapels and mountain villages of the Taygetus range. Best of all, the classy restaurants, boutiques and bars of Kardamyli are only a 10-minute walk away. As a blissful beachside bolthole for one or two couples, or a family whose children are happy sharing a double bed, this is hard to beat. I could not have envisioned anything better.
The someone in question was Dimitris Pastras, from locally based Detale Architects. Recognising that the building's footprint was small, they started with a lovely outdoor living-dining space beneath the pines, and then cleverly reworked the indoor area into a light living-kitchen room and two cosy double bedrooms, both with ensuite shower rooms.
But life is lived outdoors here, and the pine-shaded terrace, with views across gnarled rocks to the gleaming pebbles and blue waters of Ritsa Beach, is the perfect spot. A private path leads to the sea in 2 minutes; grab the SUP or kayak to explore the dramatic coastline; or follow hiking trails from your door to the gorges, hilltop chapels and mountain villages of the Taygetus range. Best of all, the classy restaurants, boutiques and bars of Kardamyli are only a 10-minute walk away. As a blissful beachside bolthole for one or two couples, or a family whose children are happy sharing a double bed, this is hard to beat. I could not have envisioned anything better.
Highs
- Sitting on the terrace for dinner, watching the improbably orange sun set behind the watery horizon
- The interior design: a masterclass of chic Maniot simplicity
- Both bedrooms are super comfy, with uninterrupted sea views
- The cottage comes with two SUPs, a sit-on kayak, fast wifi and daily cleaning
- We loved the constant sound of waves gurgling against the lava-like rocks; when the swell is up, foam sprays through a blowhole like a geyser
Lows
- Both bedrooms have a double bed: no twins or extra beds are possible
- Indoor space is limited, especially if you are 4 people
- It's quite pricey by Greek standards
- When we visited in 2023, the small pebbled Mediterranean garden needed a bit more time to grow in
Best time to go
May, June, September and early October are the ideal months in our opinion: warm but rarely hot, with near-empty beaches and cheaper deals. In spring there are wild flowers, in autumn the sea is warm - take your pick. July and August see a modest influx of (mostly Greek) visitors, but nothing like the crowds of the islands. The cottage is normally closed from November-March.
Our top tips
If you (and the cottage) are free in May or October, see if you can coincide with either the Kardamili International Jazz Festival in late May, which hosts free evening jazz sessions in the tavernas and bars around the village harbour; or the Kardamyli (Literary) Festival in early October, which brings together top-level speakers from literature and politics in a really intimate, sparky environment (only 350 attendees).