Reviewed by
Michael Cullen
Set on a low hill amid fertile farmland, this thick-walled stone farmhouse and its outbuildings have been lovingly brought back to life by a young architect, Fausta Occhipinti. Born here but educated in Paris, she has successfully preserved the feel of her cultured family home-within-a-farm. In the lofty sitting room, alongside 4 ancient wine-pressing vats, you'll find a grand piano (occasionally played by her father) and stacks of coffee-table books and childhood photos. Cool corridors lead to 12 bedrooms and suites, with snow-white fabrics, vintage beds and small windows overlooking carpets of yellow chamomile. There are countless nooks, both indoors and out, to sit and read a book, while at the bottom of the walled gardens lies an inviting pool dotted with deckchairs and almond trees.
Come dinner time, tables are laid in the grassy courtyard with colourful platters of antipasti, followed by homemade specialties like pork cheek and pistachio risotto, or braised beef with broad beans and fennel from the garden. Lanterns twinkle, friendly cats brush your ankles, conversation is convivial and multilingual. By day, explore the fabulous Baroque towns of Modica, Ragusa and Scicli (30-45 mins drive), or laze on the sandy beaches of Scoglitti and Punta Secca (20-30 mins). A privileged glimpse of authentic Sicily.
Come dinner time, tables are laid in the grassy courtyard with colourful platters of antipasti, followed by homemade specialties like pork cheek and pistachio risotto, or braised beef with broad beans and fennel from the garden. Lanterns twinkle, friendly cats brush your ankles, conversation is convivial and multilingual. By day, explore the fabulous Baroque towns of Modica, Ragusa and Scicli (30-45 mins drive), or laze on the sandy beaches of Scoglitti and Punta Secca (20-30 mins). A privileged glimpse of authentic Sicily.
Highs
- Dinner is a highlight: make sure you book yourselves in
- Most rooms are generously sized; several have a sofabed for kids
- Fausta's sister Arianna produces some of the region's finest wines, which you can sample very affordably here, and do a wine tour on request
- Staff and family members are all warmly welcoming, from the smiley reception team to the chefs who offer cookery lessons
- There are lots of activities to please the easily bored, from traditional crafts to horse-riding in the Iblei Mountains
Lows
- Be prepared for insects around the dinner table, especially in spring and early summer; and cats, too
- You'll need a hire car: there's nothing within walking distance
- West from here, the Gela plain is not the prettiest; head east (to the Baroque towns) and south (to the beaches) instead
- The small Torretta room is best suited to a single traveller
Best time to go
Spring and autumn are our favourite times to visit: not too hot, with plentiful wild flowers in March-April and warm seas in September-October. Summer can be incredibly hot in these parts, and local beaches get busy in August. The Modica chocolate festival is held in March/April or October/November, the Vittoria Jazz Festival in June, and the Sortino honey festival in October.
Our top tips
Fans of the Inspector Montalbano TV series should make a beeline - preferably in a battered Fiat Punto - for Punta Secca, whose wave-lined seafront is the location for the inspector's home ("Marinella"). Return via Scicli, whose town hall was dressed up as the police station for the films; and Ragusa, in whose restaurants the gourmet detective finds his solace - and his inspiration.