Baglio Occhipinti

near Ragusa, Sicily, Italy
Book from USD 93

A tranquil, unpretentious, affordable agriturismo in a rural Sicilian setting, with delicious dinners and local wines

A tranquil, unpretentious, affordable agriturismo in a rural Sicilian setting, with delicious dinners and local wines

Set on a low hill amid fertile farmland, this thick-walled stone farmhouse and its outbuildings have been lovingly brought back to life by a young architect, Fausta Occhipinti. Born here but educated in Paris, she has successfully preserved the feel of her cultured family home-within-a-farm. In the lofty sitting room, alongside 4 ancient wine-pressing vats, you'll find a grand piano (occasionally played by her father) and stacks of coffee-table books and childhood photos. Cool corridors lead to 12 bedrooms and suites, with snow-white fabrics, vintage beds and small windows overlooking carpets of yellow chamomile. There are countless nooks, both indoors and out, to sit and read a book, while at the bottom of the walled gardens lies an inviting pool dotted with deckchairs and almond trees.

Come dinner time, tables are laid in the grassy courtyard with colourful platters of antipasti, followed by homemade specialties like pork cheek and pistachio risotto, or braised beef with broad beans and fennel from the garden. Lanterns twinkle, friendly cats brush your ankles, conversation is convivial and multilingual. By day, explore the fabulous Baroque towns of Modica, Ragusa and Scicli (30-45 mins drive), or laze on the sandy beaches of Scoglitti and Punta Secca (20-30 mins). A privileged glimpse of authentic Sicily.

Highs

  • Dinner is a highlight: make sure you book yourselves in
  • Most rooms are generously sized; several have a sofabed for kids
  • Fausta's sister Arianna produces some of the region's finest wines, which you can sample very affordably here, and do a wine tour on request
  • Staff and family members are all warmly welcoming, from the smiley reception team to the chefs who offer cookery lessons
  • There are lots of activities to please the easily bored, from traditional crafts to horse-riding in the Iblei Mountains

Lows

  • Be prepared for insects around the dinner table, especially in spring and early summer; and cats, too
  • You'll need a hire car: there's nothing within walking distance
  • West from here, the Gela plain is not the prettiest; head east (to the Baroque towns) and south (to the beaches) instead
  • The small Torretta room is best suited to a single traveller

Best time to go

Spring and autumn are our favourite times to visit: not too hot, with plentiful wild flowers in March-April and warm seas in September-October. Summer can be incredibly hot in these parts, and local beaches get busy in August. The Modica chocolate festival is held in March/April or October/November, the Vittoria Jazz Festival in June, and the Sortino honey festival in October.

Our top tips

Fans of the Inspector Montalbano TV series should make a beeline - preferably in a battered Fiat Punto - for Punta Secca, whose wave-lined seafront is the location for the inspector's home ("Marinella"). Return via Scicli, whose town hall was dressed up as the police station for the films; and Ragusa, in whose restaurants the gourmet detective finds his solace - and his inspiration.

Great for...

Eco
Family
Foodie
  • Boutique Hotel
  • 12 rooms
  • Breakfast + other meals on request
  • All ages welcome
  • Closed: December - February
  • Outdoor Pool
  • Spa Treatments
  • Beach nearby
  • Pet Friendly
  • Disabled Access
  • Car essential
  • Parking
  • Restaurants Nearby
  • WiFi
  • Air Conditioning
  • Guest Lounge
  • Terrace
  • Garden
  • Gym
  • Bicycles Available
Room:

Rooms

Most of the 12 rooms are located in the venerable old farmhouse, a rambling L-shaped building whose cool stone-flagged corridors are dotted with sitting nooks, antique dressers and ceramic vases bursting with flowers from the garden. The smallest, Torretta, is above the main sitting room, and ideal for a single traveller. Two others, Panorama and Botanica (also on the first floor), share a semi-private sitting area. Enormous Thermae is in an outbuilding with its own entrance; Giardino has 2 queensize beds on 2 different levels; Carruba boasts a separate sitting room. Etna and most of the Deluxe rooms (Pergola, Maiolica, Gelso and Monti Iblei) are new since we last visited, but they are all beautifully decorated in the same rustic-luxe style.

Expect open beamed ceilings, pale stone walls, crisp white-clad beds and armchairs, and a touch of elegance from a chandelier or ornate mirror frame. Racks of cream-painted clothes hangers stand in for a wardrobe. The overall feel is pretty, somewhat feminine, but inescapably an ancient Sicilan home, as witnessed by a hefty stone washbasin or salvaged patch of tiling. Panorama, Thermae and some Deluxe rooms have baths; the rest smart shower rooms with drench heads and proper plumbing.

Features include:

  • Hairdryer
  • WiFi

Eating

Dinner is a highlight - book it at least one evening, if not all. Rustic tables are laid under the almond trees, aperitivi are offered, guests mingle - and those who helped Enza with the cooking will confirm how local it is. Think fresh foccaccia with caponata, homemade pasta with the most delicious ragu, baked sardines or a risotto with courgette, pork cheeks and pistachio. Mains might feature braised beef with broad beans and chard from the garden, or catch of the day from the harbour at Scoglitti. You never quite know what's coming next, nor how many courses to expect: not ideal for fussy eaters perhaps, but you won't leave hungry!

Outstanding wines flow freely, courtesy of Fausta's viticultured sister Ariana - deep red Nero d'Avola and Frappato (which the New York Times called "energetic and delightful"), or a fruity white Albanello and Zibbibo called SP68, which we found exquisite.

Breakfast is equally delicious - though not quite as copious (thankfully). Expect yoghurts and eggs, still warm cakes, fresh squeezed orange juice, wobbly ricotta from the farmer next door, even homemade tiramisu or a seasonal fruit tart if you're lucky.

Features include:

  • Bar
  • Breakfast
  • Dinner by arrangement
  • Lunch by arrangement
  • Organic produce
Eating:
Activity:

Activities

  • Don't miss the fantastic hill town of Ragusa, with its proud Baroque church facades and warren of tangled alleys dominating a deep valley (there's Michelin-starred food, too)
  • Modica is not much further, its handsome houses and cathedrals lining 2 sides of a valley like an improbably ornate stage set (be sure to try the crunchy local chocolate)
  • Beyond lie other Baroque jewels - Scicli, Noto - as well as the eerie gorge of Ispica, whose cliffs are pocked with Neolithic tombs: a rewarding hike
  • Head south for the sea: Scoglitti has a vibrant local fish market (and excellent seafood restaurants), Punta Secca is the fictional waterfront home of Inspector Montalbano, Donnalucata has the longest and sandiest beach of all
  • Back at the hotel, swim in the chlorine-free 18m pool - very refreshing
  • There's a whole range of experiences on offer: wine tours, horseriding in the mountains, Italian lessons, ricotta-making, crafting Sicilian coffe bags...
  • Keen cooks can ask for a lesson with the chef: learn how to make fresh pasta (and the local sauces) or bake feather-light foccaccia; and collect a wad of recipes
  • Or simply switch off with a massage or a yoga flow

Activities on site or nearby include:

  • Cooking classes
  • Cycling
  • Hiking
  • Historical sites
  • Swimming
  • Wine tasting

Kids

Children are warmly welcomed here - it's a family-run place - but there aren't any children's facilities, games or toys, and there's not a lot to do except play in the pool. The enclosed grounds make it generally pretty safe.

Best for:

Babies (0-1 years), Toddlers (1-4 years), Children (4-12 years)

Family friendly accommodation:

Giardino has 2 double bedrooms on 2 levels (limited headroom upstairs). Suites, Deluxe rooms and Etna can sleep 1-2 children in a double sofabed. Panorama and Vigna can each fit a baby cot.

Kids Activities on site:

  • The pool

Families Should Know:

The pool is unfenced. There are prickly cactuses in the garden. Thick stone walls may defeat your baby monitor. Most beds and armchairs are draped in snow-white fabrics.

Distances:

  • Airport: Comiso (9km)
  • Shop: 5km
  • Beaches: 20km
Kid Friendly:

Location

Baglio Occhipinti is set in farmland between the towns of Ragusa and Gela, in southeast Sicily.

By Air
Comiso Airport is extremely close (9km, 10 mins) but Catania (90km, 1hr 15 mins) has a wider range of flights.

From the Airport
You'll want a hire car, as the hotel is quite isolated.

Detailed directions will be sent when you book through i-escape.

More on getting to Sicily and getting around

Airports:

  • Comiso 9.0 km CIY
  • Catania 90.0 km CTA

Other:

  • Beach 20.0 km
  • Shops 5.0 km
  • Restaurant 5.0 km

Our guests' ratings...

Based on 4 independent reviews from i-escape guests

9/10
Room
10/10
Food
10/10
Service
10/10
Value
10/10
Overall

Charming venue. Food was delicious, service friendly. WiFi not so good!

9/10, , December 2024

Baglio Occhipinti is like an oasis in the middle of real farming territory. It is a place to truly relax by the pool and switch off from the world. The best things? the food was absolutely superb. Each course was utterly delicious, and what was so lovely is that it was all local ingredients done in a unique but delicious way, for example crispy sage leaves! Who knew that was a thing! Staff were brilliant, although it is a little challenging finding them when you want a drink in the evening as there is no real central point to go and ask for something. Although we were told to go to the kitchen to ask, it at times was difficult as they were getting ready for service etc. Also I would say our room was a little tired (Etna), not really anywhere to store clothes apart from a hanging rack. But saying this I would definitely recommend, and the evenings watching sunsets with fantastic wine and food were incredible.

9/10, , August 2024

One of the highlights of our tour around Southern Italy was staying at Baglio Occhipinti. A very stylish and yet understated hotel - felt like staying in a gorgeous country home. The rooms were all simply yet thoughtfully appointed. The standout though was the food, which was excellent. A wonderful menu each day with all courses sourced from the garden or local farming community, with great wine from the estate. The cooking class was also lots of fun and very informative - both us and our children loved it.

10/10, , July 2023

Quite remote rural setting but great to come back to after exploring those baroque towns or just to have some downtime chilling out by gorgeous pool. The service was excellent and food delicious - fresh organic home grown produce and inventive menus - but evening sitting doesn’t start til 8.30 pm and after 5-6 courses finishes around 11pm. Very friendly laid back vibe and each room has private seating area as well as range of alfresco dining options.

10/10, , October 2020

Rates for Baglio Occhipinti