This verdant corner of Asturias, where the Picos mountains plunge into the wild Atlantic ocean amid cliff-backed beaches and red-roofed fishing towns, has escaped the attention of most visitors to Spain. But not ours. We came to gawp at the breathtaking blowholes of the Bufones de Pria, through which the ocean spouts dramatic geysers, gurgling and growling as if alive; reason enough to come. And then, a short walk away, we discovered these stone apartments, hand-carved using traditional techniques, but flaunting contemporary interiors with lots of natural wood. A haven of calm, and the perfect place to base yourselves.
Their contemporary-styled lounges feature picture windows and artworks by friends of Basque-born artist and owner Santos Arribas. Private terraces offer long views over gently grazing cattle; there’s a shimmering infinity pool from which to watch birds and spectacular sunsets. Santos and Ana, who live on-site, are laid-back yet attentive hosts who will help you unwrap this Costa Verde (Green Coast).
The nearby sandy beach of Guadamia, and the riverside walk down to it, are stunning. The Camino de Santiago passes the apartments too. Drive a few miles inland to marvel at the Picos de Europa, or jump on a train along the coast to the fishing ports of Llanes and Ribadesella where you can feast on local seafood. Ideal for nature-loving couples, families or Camino pilgrims alike.
Highs
- The wow factor - the blowholes are one of Spain’s finest natural wonders
- It really is calm here, and the surrounding landscape is rugged and untouched, so it’s a perfect place to destress
- This is one of Spain’s most beautiful coastlines, a world away from the brash, touristed playgrounds of the Costa Brava or the sun-scorched south
- Santos and Ana are outstanding hosts. If you’re lucky, you might even get a taste of Santos’ incredible cooking or produce from the couple’s garden
Lows
- Some bedrooms are on the small side, but you’ll be spending most of your time in the light and airy lounge, out on the terrace, or exploring beyond
- The blowholes are a popular tourist attraction so you might spot a few other visitors in the distance
- It’s not the easiest place to find, especially because the name Bufones de Pria refers both to the site of the blowholes and to the apartments. But the owners provide good directions
Best time to go
For flowers and walking, spring is best, but for lounging on beaches and hiking the high Picos, go in summer or autumn. Come in autumn too to admire the colours of the area’s many woods and to witness apple harvesting and cider-making. The region has a number of festivals throughout the year (an international canoeing festival and a magic festival in August, a rally car festival at the end of October, a film festival in May, and many more). Although you can see the blowholes doing their thing all year round, winter is a particularly good time.
Our top tips
Our guests' ratings...
Based on 6 independent reviews from i-escape guests
We loved the location and had a lovely week, but there were a lot of rules. We continue to love I-escape and you are always our first choice for booking!
The apartment was really well appointed, with a lovely pool, and extremely clean. Situated in a beautiful location, with a lovely beach nearby, it was extremely relaxing.
Apartments had everything we needed. Ana was a super host and we wanted for nothing. We will be back!
What a beautiful part of Spain - we walked miles along fantastic coastline and swam in crystal clear sea along the way. Fully recommend a stay here.
We had an AMAZING stay - thank you so much to Ana and Santos for creating a beautiful haven and for being such brilliant hosts! The apartment was terrific, well equipped, comfortable and super clean; as was the garden, the pool and the outside space; the infinity pool was lovely and a decent size too. Within easy walking distance, there was a lovely beach (Playa de Guadamia) as well as a selection of restaurants/bars in the same village. We particularly enjoyed Restaurants Playa de Guadamia, although book ahead and be punctual! The surrounding area is beautiful - amazing beaches (lots) and the Picos are also stunning, with plenty of walking trails. We kayaked from Arriondas to Llovio (for a very reasonable price w Rumbo Norte) and very much enjoyed Ribadesella, the nearest town too. There are coastal walks from the door of the apartment to enjoy and we did a lovely 10k circuit to Villanueva and back via the Bufones de Pria themselves. Asturias is an absolutely lovely area, with unspoiled landscapes and few foreign tourists (when we were there anyway) which for us was the perfect mix. We will absolutely come back and cannot wait! A really wonderful holiday :)
10 minutes walk from an excellent beach for swimming or jumping in waves depending on the tide level. Three decent restaurants are within 10 minute's walk and many more are a short drive away. Excellent, helpful advice from the host, Ana. 45 - 60 minutes drive from walks in the Picos de Europa.
The atmosphere was a bit damp so hard to dry out clothes - only a minor moan!
We stayed in one of the 3 beautifully and tastefully appointed modern apartments in an extraordinary location . It is so tranquil with only the sound of cow bells to add to the enchantment as you gaze over the few fields that bridge your view to the Atlantic and the cliffs that house the magical Bufones, nature’s nod to her power just a 10 minute stroll down a country lane. We dined over our 4 nights in the 2 restaurants within minutes walk, delicious local food at great value. Highly recommended.
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