This verdant corner of Asturias, where the Picos mountains plunge into the wild Atlantic ocean amid cliff-backed beaches and red-roofed fishing towns, has escaped the attention of most visitors to Spain. But not ours. We came to gawp at the breathtaking blowholes of the Bufones de Pria, through which the ocean spouts dramatic geysers, gurgling and growling as if alive; reason enough to come. And then, a short walk away, we discovered these stone apartments, hand-carved using traditional techniques, but flaunting contemporary interiors with lots of natural wood. A haven of calm, and the perfect place to base yourselves.
Their contemporary-styled lounges feature picture windows and artworks by friends of Basque-born artist and owner Santos Arribas. Private terraces offer long views over gently grazing cattle; there’s a shimmering infinity pool from which to watch birds and spectacular sunsets. Santos and Ana, who live on-site, are laid-back yet attentive hosts who will help you unwrap this Costa Verde (Green Coast).
The nearby sandy beach of Guadamia, and the riverside walk down to it, are stunning. The Camino de Santiago passes the apartments too. Drive a few miles inland to marvel at the Picos de Europa, or jump on a train along the coast to the fishing ports of Llanes and Ribadesella where you can feast on local seafood. Ideal for nature-loving couples, families or Camino pilgrims alike.
Highs
- The wow factor - the blowholes are one of Spain’s finest natural wonders
- It really is calm here, and the surrounding landscape is rugged and untouched, so it’s a perfect place to destress
- This is one of Spain’s most beautiful coastlines, a world away from the brash, touristed playgrounds of the Costa Brava or the sun-scorched south
- Santos and Ana are outstanding hosts. If you’re lucky, you might even get a taste of Santos’ incredible cooking or produce from the couple’s garden
Lows
- Some bedrooms are on the small side, but you’ll be spending most of your time in the light and airy lounge, out on the terrace, or exploring beyond
- The blowholes are a popular tourist attraction so you might spot a few other visitors in the distance
- It’s not the easiest place to find, especially because the name Bufones de Pria refers both to the site of the blowholes and to the apartments. But the owners provide good directions
- Note that Apartment 4 isn't yet bookable - we'll update this page as soon as it becomes available
Best time to go
For flowers and walking, spring is best, but for lounging on beaches and hiking the high Picos, go in summer or autumn. Come in autumn too to admire the colours of the area’s many woods and to witness apple harvesting and cider-making. The region has a number of festivals throughout the year (an international canoeing festival and a magic festival in August, a rally car festival at the end of October, a film festival in May, and many more). Although you can see the blowholes doing their thing all year round, winter is a particularly good time.
Our top tips
- Boutique Apartments
- 4 apartments for 2-4
- Self-catering (restaurants nearby)
- All ages welcome
- Open all year
- Outdoor Pool
- Spa Treatments
- Beach Nearby
- Pet Friendly
- Disabled Access
- Car essential
- Parking
- Restaurants Nearby
- WiFi
- Air Conditioning
- Guest Lounge
- Terrace
- Garden
- Gym
- Daily Maid Service
- Towels & Bedlinen
Rooms
There are three pretty-much-identical apartments on ground level, each with a double and twin bedroom, shower room, and its own attractively-planted garden looking across fields and scrubland to the coast. Lounges are pleasingly spacious, with original artworks by artist Gorka Otsoa de Alda (buy them if you like them!), eclectic rugs, Finnish-designed natural oak wood furniture and Italian energy-saving lamps (LED).
The fourth apartment is not yet available to book but is coming soon. It's located upstairs, and is twice the size, with two double bedrooms, each with their own ensuite bathroom, a wood-burner, and a large kitchen-diner with picture windows.
All apartments have glorious views out towards the sea and blowholes, distant fishing boats, Ribadesella lighthouse and starry skies at night. Inside each, you'll find natural hypoallergenic mattresses with tip-top bedding, smart 45-inch TVs, fully equipped kitchens and aerothermal underfloor heating with independent thermostats in every room.
Bathrooms have snazzy Bluetooth controls that can change the light colour and strength, and play your favourite music tracks. We also loved arriving to find a generous bowl of fruit and a kettle to make a cup of tea - simple pleasures, but a rarity in Spain!
Features include:
- Hairdryer
- Mosquito net
- Safe box
- Washing machine
- WiFi
Eating
All apartments have full kitchens, equipped with a washing machine, dishwasher, fridge-freezer, coffee maker, juicer, toaster, blender and pans. Smaller apartments just have a microwave and grill, the larger one (Apartment 4 - coming soon) has an oven too.
For eating out, there are plenty of restaurants to chose from. The closest (five-min walk) is La Puente, a bar-restaurant serving good, simple food; or there are are plenty of other great restaurants and sidrerias (cider-houses) in surrounding villages. In Nueva (five-min drive), don't miss Casa Pilar for fresh fish and Sidreria Muros for meat and roasts. Or head further afield to Llanes and Ribadesella for high-end eateries - there’s even a Michelin-starred restaurant, Arbidel, in Ribadesella, plus Asturias’ only two-starred one, Casa Marcial, lies half an hour inland if you want a treat.
Wherever you go, try fabada - a hearty stew made from locally-grown fava beans, chorizo, morcilla (blood sausage) and salt pork. The vegetarian version, pote, is equally delicious - wash it down with Asturian cider, ceremoniously poured from a height to give it fizz. Other meaty treats include cachopo, Asturias’ answer to schnitzel, and pitu de caleya, rooster with saffron-infused rice. Don’t miss the local cheeses, including blue-veined Cabrales, made from a blend of cow, sheep and goats' milk, and matured in mountain caves.
Features include:
- Coffee maker
- Dishwasher
- Fridge
- Full kitchen
- Microwave
- Restaurants nearby
- Toaster
- Self-catering
Activities
- A stroll around the cliffs is a must. If you’re lucky, you’ll spot blowholes in action; but even if you don't, it’s a beautiful walk, and you can end up with a swim on the lovely beach at Guadamia.
- For more serious hiking, head to the Picos de Europa, or walk a stretch of the well-signposted Camino de Santiago that runs past the apartments.
- Take a boat to the caves in the cliffs, and get a close-up view of the blowholes. Santos and Ana can recommend excursions.
- Take it easy on a nearby beach - there are scores to choose from (around 30), and on many, you won’t spot another soul.
- Drive up towards the Picos through Cangas de Onis, the first capital of Christian Spain with its medieval bridge, to the 19th-century basilica of Covadonga, and beyond to the mountain lakes of Ercina and Enol.
- Visit the stalactitic Tito Bustillo caves with their pre-historic wall paintings and museum next door.
- If you've got kids in tow, visit the Nature Park of Cabarceno, home to nearly 120 different animal species.
- Foodies shouldn't miss tours of nearby artisanal cheese and cider factories.
Activities on site or nearby include:
- Birdwatching
- Boat trips
- Canyoning
- Climbing
- Cycling
- Fishing
- Golf
- Hiking
- Jet skiing
- Kayaking
- Mountain biking
- Museums / galleries
- Private guided tours
- Rafting
- Scuba diving
- Snorkelling
- Surfing
- Swimming
- Trekking
Kids
The apartments and gardens are securely fenced off, so it’s a great place for kids of all ages. There’s loads for them to do, from messing around in the pool or on one of the nearby beaches, to hiking, cycling, canoeing or sailing.
Best for:
All ages
Family friendly accommodation:
Each of the three ground-level apartments has a twin room - ideal if you’re travelling with up to two children. Cots and highchairs are also available if you're bringing a baby (but if the baby - aged two or under - is in addition to two children there's an extra charge).
Kids Activities on site:
- Paddling pool
Distances:
- Supermarket: Five mins' drive
- Hospital: 30 mins' drive, or 10 mins' drive to a medical centre (in Nueva)
- Airport: 1hr 15 mins' drive
For more family-friendly places, see our Kids Collection
Location
The Bufones de Pria Apartments are located in the small town of Garaña, which lies between Llanes (to the east) and Ribadesella (to the west), in the Asturias region of Spain.
By Air
Asturias Airport (110km, 1 hour 15 mins) usually has the cheapest flights from the UK; or try Santander (105km) or Bilbao (200km).
From the Airport
The apartments are rural so we'd definitely recommend hiring a car to explore the area - see our car rental recommendations. There is free parking at the apartments. If you prefer to use public transport, you can catch a train to the nearby village of Nueva (4.5km) or a bus to the Pineres stop (2.7km), then take a taxi to the apartments.
By Ferry
If you don't want to fly from the UK, Brittany Ferries sail from Portsmouth and Plymouth to Santander (20-24 hours' crossing time). From here, it's just over an hour’s drive to the apartments, or you can catch a train to Nueva (2-3 hrs). The train goes through Llanes and continues to Ribadesella and all the way to Oviedo, so it’s a great way to explore the area if you don't want to drive.
Detailed directions will be sent to you when you book through i-escape.
Airports:
- Santander 105.0 km SDR
- Asturias Airport 110.0 km OVD
Other:
- Beach 1.0 km
- Shops 1.2 km
- Restaurant 0.3 km
Our guests' ratings...
Based on 6 independent reviews from i-escape guests
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