Reviewed by
Clare Hargreaves
You don’t have to be Rapunzel to stay in a tower. And this tower, in the agapanthus-adorned gardens of an 18th-century mansion near the sea, happens to be a pretty special one. It’s medieval - possibly dating as far back as the ninth century - and when owner Manolo Santullano bought it, it was an empty ruin. Since then, he’s filled its ancient stone walls with two luxurious bedrooms, a lounge and a roof terrace with stupendous views.
Rooms in the house might be more orthodox, but are equally comfortable, skilfully blending original features like stone walls and timbered ceilings with modern artworks and wooden furnishings - many of them crafted by Manolo’s dad. Downstairs, a flower-decked sitting room has a library, honesty bar and sleek colourful sofas. Relax by the log fire before proceeding to the dining room - or outdoor terrace if it’s warm - where Manolo delivers simple, locally-sourced suppers.
This part of Asturias is said to have one of the best-preserved coastlines in Spain. Walk to the local beach (which is nearly always empty), or pop by car to tiny, little-known working ports like Luarca and Puerto de Vega, where the fishermen’s catch is auctioned every afternoon. Inland are time-lost villages where you sample the old Asturias - and Oviedo, the region’s history-steeped capital. Outdoorsy types and history buffs will adore it here.
Rooms in the house might be more orthodox, but are equally comfortable, skilfully blending original features like stone walls and timbered ceilings with modern artworks and wooden furnishings - many of them crafted by Manolo’s dad. Downstairs, a flower-decked sitting room has a library, honesty bar and sleek colourful sofas. Relax by the log fire before proceeding to the dining room - or outdoor terrace if it’s warm - where Manolo delivers simple, locally-sourced suppers.
This part of Asturias is said to have one of the best-preserved coastlines in Spain. Walk to the local beach (which is nearly always empty), or pop by car to tiny, little-known working ports like Luarca and Puerto de Vega, where the fishermen’s catch is auctioned every afternoon. Inland are time-lost villages where you sample the old Asturias - and Oviedo, the region’s history-steeped capital. Outdoorsy types and history buffs will adore it here.
Highs
- These are truly historic buildings, creatively brought back to life - we could relax in its sitting rooms and gardens for days!
- Tranquility is yours - there’s no habitation between here and the coast, a short stroll away
- You’re within easy reach of historic Oviedo or coastal gems such as Luarca and Cudillero
- Asturian-born Manolo is a fabulous host
- Unlike most of the rest of Spain, Asturias is green, rugged and lush: a walker’s paradise
Lows
- Mealtimes are late - breakfast starts at 8.30am, while dinner doesn't kick off until 8.30pm. But hey, this is Spain and you'll soon adjust your body clock to fit in with local timings
- It’s slightly tricky to find, so follow the hotel’s directions carefully - Manolo is also planning to improve the signposting
- Apart from in the tower, showers are all above bathtubs rather than walk-in. But they’re a good size
- Don't expect any facilities on the local beach - it's wild, rocky and wonderfully unspoilt
Best time to go
For flowers, and to avoid the crowds, spring is the ideal time (though it can rain!). But Asturias never gets as hot as southern parts of Spain, so summer is pleasant too. In autumn there are numerous food festivals and you can see the apple harvest and cider-making as well as autumn colours. The hotel is closed from November to February inclusive, apart from the weekend nearest to 8th December, the Feast of the Immaculate Conception, and over Christmas.
Our top tips
We were bowled over by the stunning flowers throughout the hotel - mainly dahlias when we visited - all grown in the hamlet by a local resident called Pilar (who also works at the hotel). Truly special, as is Pilar.