Picturesque Asturias, tucked away on the northwest coast of Spain, remains a well-kept secret. There’s not a single high-rise in sight, just beautiful beaches, authentic fare, mountainous hikes and colourful fishing villages. One such village is San Esteban, found right in the centre of the province; once a working coal port and now a peaceful haven for surfers, cyclists and Spanish holiday makers. Here, perched on the banks of the Nalon river, is Gran Hotel Brillante.
This historic pension, beautifully restored as a boutique hotel, is something of a rare gem: it offers rooms and residences which are not only elegant but refreshingly good value. The traditional charm of this early 20th-century building shines through. Arrive to original black and white marble floors and grand high ceilings. There's a restaurant space on the ground floor for breakfast and dinners, and bistro tables out front where we sat with morning coffee and gazed at the river. The 22 newly refurbished rooms and apartments occupy the floors above, and come in a variety of sizes and shapes, and are all clean white walls and polished wood floors, mixed with sleek marble sinks, brass hardware and supremely comfortable beds – this was a good quality renovation. Be sure to bag one overlooking the estuary if you can; those at the front of the building have spectacular river views. The close proximity to the airport makes this an excellent destination for those looking for a minibreak, as you're perfectly positioned to explore all of the region's delights – as we did. And San Esteban, the region's smallest town, stays relaxed and tranquil year-round. What a find!
Highs
- Superb river views from many of the rooms and apartments
- A great option for families seeking all the perks of a stylish, luxury hotel with the convenience of an apartment – and at a good price point to boot
- A super location in history-rich Asturias with surfing, hiking trails and gorgeous beaches within relatively easy reach; the airport is just 15 minutes' away
- The tasty food served in the restaurant is locally sourced and good value, and there's an impressive wine list
- The lovely staff who make staying here a treat
Lows
- No guest lounge or salon; there are some sofas in the reception area
- River-facing rooms also overlook a road and car parking
- The restaurant is not open for lunch but you'll likely be out and about during the day anyway
- Some may feel rooms are a little lacking in character
- No pool but there's a popular saltwater one at the mouth of the estuary (open June-September)
Best time to go
Asturias doesn’t get as stiflingly hot as the rest of Spain during the summer months – expect temperatures in the mid-high twenties – so it’s a pleasant time to visit. Bear in mind that prices are at their highest then too. Snow can fall between December and March. April to June is best for kayaking and taking on the more extreme hiking trails. The hotel is closed from 8-31 January every year.
Our top tips
No visit to Asturias is complete without sampling the local tipple. Cider, or “sidre”, is big business here. Visit a local cider house (sidrerías) where you can also try some traditional local cuisine, such as bean stew or queso Cabrales (blue cheese).
Our guests' ratings...
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