Fond Doux

Near Soufriere, St Lucia, Caribbean
Book from GBP Book from £304 per night

A tranquil heritage plantation looking out to the Pitons, where simple cottages and a lush tropical garden provide a secluded retreat

A tranquil heritage plantation looking out to the Pitons, where simple cottages and a lush tropical garden provide a secluded retreat

Fond Doux translates from local patois as 'sweet valley', and this 250-year-old plantation certainly lives up to its name. Still producing cocoa, it's one of oldest working plantations in the Caribbean and its dense tropical gardens of trees, fruits and flowers provide a glorious scent all year round.

Local owners Eroline and Lyton Lamontagne spent 10 years restoring the derelict site into the restorative haven you see today. They relocated 1 and 2-bedroom cottages from nearby Castries, added a triple cascading swimming pool, and generally refurbished with eco practices and nature preservation in mind.

With only a handful of cottages set in 135 acres of lush grounds, it’s ideal for those who treasure privacy and want an authentic experience of St Lucia. Indeed, it's a different world from the slick hotel resorts that line the coast. Perhaps first impressions are that it needs a lick of paint, but it’s all part of the plantation charm - and you'll be seduced by the peace and natural beauty in no time.

Highs

  • You're near the World Heritage site of the Pitons and volcano, but far from the sulphur smell
  • The restorative views, generous private decks and hammocks are ideal for soothing away a tiring journey
  • The colourful gardens are so expansive that you rarely see other guests - honeymooners will love it
  • This is a bird-watcher’s and horticulturalist's paradise at any time of year
  • The rooms are techno-lite, with no TV and limited WiFi; pure escapism

Lows

  • It might be too rustic for some - the odd tile is missing, and the energy-saving bulbs are a little harsh on the eye
  • The journey here involves continuous hair-pin bends - it's worth it for the views, but you may get queasy
  • Occasional cheesy muzak from the bar (Mariah Carey) breaks the quiet, and the spell
  • Large parties of cruise-ship tourists descend once a week for lunch, but you can always hide in your cottage
  • The food is good but the menu is limited, and there are no other restaurants within walking distance

Best time to go

Fond Doux is open all year and nearby Soufriere is the centre of many events: a jazz festival in May, a carnival in August and yachts in November. The abundant tropical fruits and flowers are seasonal so you may not see them all at once, but if you want to try some of the many varieties of mango then go in May. December to April is St Lucia's high season, when the weather is drier. June to November is the rainy season and there's a slight risk of hurricanes.

Our top tips

Pack ear plugs, walking shoes if you want to tackle the trails, and a sarong to walk through the garden to the pool. You may also need a jumper for the evenings. Pest control is rigorous, so although mozzie repellent is advised, I didn't need it.

Great for...

Eco
Family
Romantic
  • Boutique Hotel
  • 17 rooms
  • Restaurants and bar (open daily)
  • All ages welcome
  • Open all year
  • Outdoor Pool
  • Spa Treatments
  • Beach Nearby
  • Pet Friendly
  • Disabled Access
  • Car not necessary
  • Parking
  • Restaurants Nearby
  • WiFi
  • Air Conditioning
  • Guest Lounge
  • Terrace
  • Garden
  • Gym
  • Gazebo
Room:

Rooms

The cottages are bright, airy and surrounded by foliage, with polished wooden floors, handmade four-poster beds, bamboo lights, an abundance of wooden shutters, and private terraces with hammocks and wicker chairs. Technology is limited to a careful selection of gadgets, and a torch and candles indicate there may be an issue with power, but not during our visit. There's air-conditioning for the hottest days, but the ceiling fans and the breeze caught by the plantation's lofty position usually suffice.

Bathrooms have rain showers and clay basins decorated with smiling faces - slightly bizarre. You'll also find handmade soaps and seasonal fresh flowers from the plantation.

Of the 1-Bedroom Cottages, our favourites were Hilltop Coconut and Hilltop Guava, each perched on a forested ridge amongst coconut trees. Their peaceful terraces have fantastic views and private plunge pools, but break-neck steps to access, so be sure to book a garden-level room if vertigo is an issue. We stayed in Coconut and loved the colourful décor and tranquil setting. It's worth noting, though, that as the sun goes down, the evening chorus of the rainforest ignites. We found it mesmerising, but take earplugs if you're a light sleeper. On terra firma, Cinnamon is popular amongst honeymooners, but we liked the look of Bamboo with its white louvered windows and pretty patterned bedspread, and the secluded Tree House, hidden away in the foliage.

Of the 2-Bedroom Cottages, each of which has a kitchenette, Avocado is the most private, located at the end of a long path. Bamboo furniture and bright Caribbean décor make it both comfortable and colourful.

Deluxe 2-Bedroom Cottage Angelina is a 2-storey, 160-year-old yellow colonial house that feels slightly more tired than the others, but offers generous amounts of space and an extensive private garden - great for families. With the bathroom and kitchen located off an open walkway, it wouldn't suit those who prefer their amenities hermetically sealed.

Features include:

  • Fan
  • Hairdryer
  • Minibar
  • Safe box
  • WiFi

Eating

There are 2 restaurants at Fond Doux, both offering Creole cuisine, and most of the fruit, herbs and vegetables are harvested on the plantation.

Breakfast is eaten in The Creole Pot (once a pigpen!), where you choose from a continental / American menu, or the St Lucian menu of salt fish and salad, with cocoa tea. The raffia chairs are rather uncomfortable, and you need to watch out for cheeky birds eyeing your food, but the fresh grapefruit juice will be the sweetest you’ve ever tasted. You can also lunch at The Creole Pot - a buffet of local and international dishes, such as fish curry and jerk chicken.

Dinner is taken in the Bamboo Restaurant, an open-sided bamboo construction where you're surrounded by candles, lanterns and greenery, and serenaded by the night chorus. The food is enthusiastic as opposed to masterful, but the à la carte menu offers plenty of choice such as baked red snapper with fresh herbs, golden plantation chips in a Creole dip, or Piton lamb rack marinated in local beer. As you might expect, cocoa is a regular feature on the menu (chocolate and onion soup, anyone?!) and the alarmingly named 'Volcanic Eruption' is a must-try dessert. Room service is also possible (just order from a menu in your cottage).

If you were staying a week, you might find the menu limited, in which case there are a couple of popular restaurants, which the hotel can organise taxis to: The Mango Tree (great rotis) or Gee's (excellent seafood), both of which have sunset views of the Pitons.

All of the 2-Bedroom Cottages have kitchenettes so you can self cater, too. There is a supermarket down the road where you can pick up supplies. In terms of equipment you get a microwave, a stove, a fridge, a toaster, a kettle and a coffee maker.

Features include:

  • Bar
  • Breakfast
  • Restaurant
Eating:
Activity: 1-Bedroom Cottage with Pool

Activities

  • Absorb the quiet from a hammock on your private terrace, then stroll through tropical gardens to lounge by the cascading pools
  • Take a tour of the plantation; discover the heritage of the site, or learn about the chocolate-making process from bean to bar.
  • Follow an on-site nature trail to see cocoa trees, crops (bananas, nutmeg, coffee, cinnamon), historic battle ruins and stupendous views. Signage was lacking on our visit, so double check the route before you set off
  • Bird-watch in the gardens or from your room. Regular spots include St Lucia orioles, bananaquits and St Lucia pewees, and we had hummingbirds on our terrace - such a treat
  • Book a treatment at the spa, named Mama La Terre ('Mother Earth'). All products are made from natural organic ingredients such as citrus, chocolate and mud from the sulphur springs
  • Walk to St Lucia's famous 'drive-in' volcano and sulphur springs to enjoy a mud wrap (dark swimwear is advised!)
  • Climb the mighty Pitons, a World Heritage site. You'll need a guide for Petit Piton, which is the steeper of the peaks
  • Beach lovers can take the free hotel shuttle to Jalousie Beach (15 minutes away, with beautiful white sand) or ask local taxi driver Marcus to drive you to Anse Chastanet Beach (20 minutes away), where you'll find fantastic snorkelling
  • Take a day trip: Castries (St Lucia's main city) has colourful markets and lovely seafront eateries; Anse le Raye and Canaries (aka Kanawe) are pretty fishing villages; Soufriere has botanical gardens, a Friday night jump-up (street festival) and a Saturday market
  • Adrenaline junkies can charter a helicopter, zipline through the rainforest canopy, go scuba diving, head off horse riding, go whale and dolphin watching and hire mountain bikes from several nearby locations - enquire at reception

Activities on site or nearby include:

  • Birdwatching
  • Boat trips
  • Cycling
  • Golf
  • Hiking
  • Historical sites
  • Horse riding
  • Kayaking
  • Mountain biking
  • Nightlife
  • Plantlife / flora
  • Private guided tours
  • Sailing
  • Scuba diving
  • Scuba diving courses
  • Shopping / markets
  • Snorkelling
  • Swimming
  • Traditional cultures
  • Trekking
  • Well being
  • Whale watching
  • Wildlife

Kids

Fond Doux is very family-friendly and children under 12 stay for free.

Best for:

Babies (0-1 years), Children (4-12 years)

Family friendly accommodation:

Each cottage can hold a baby cot. Families will need a 2-Bedroom Cottage (Cocoa Tree or Avocado); bigger families should opt for Deluxe 2-Bedroom Cottage Angelina, which can sleep up to 4 adults and 2 kids. You may find it tricky carrying toddlers up to the hilltop rooms and their patio's have a steep drop off; you would need to keep a watchful eye near the triple cascading pools (there's no life guard).

Cots Available, Extra Beds Available

Babysitting:

Baby-sitting can be arranged on request.

Baby equipment:

Baby cots are available on request.

Remember  baby and child equipment may be limited or need pre-booking

Kid Friendly: 1-Bedroom Cottage with Pool

Location

Fond Doux is located 3 miles south of the town of Soufriere along St Lucia's winding west coast road.

By Air:
Hewanorra International (26km away) in the south of the island is served by many airlines from the US and Europe. If you're arriving from another Caribbean island, you'll most likely fly into George FL Charles (formerly known as Vigie) near the capital city of Castries. Click on the links below for a list of airlines serving these airports.

From the Airport
Transfers can be arranged from either airport - the drive from both takes 1-1.5 hours. Enquire when booking.

By Car:
A car is the best way to explore the island and you may feel isolated without one.For car hire, see our car rental recommendations. You will need to obtain a temporary St Lucia driver’s licence purchased from the Immigration Office upon arrival at the airport or at the car-rental kiosks when you pick up your car. In addition you have to be over 25 years old and show a valid driver’s licence from home. A word of warning: whilst main roads are fine, they can be mountainous and bendy, so travel may take longer than you expect.

Detailed directions will be sent to you when you book through i-escape.com.

More on getting to St Lucia and getting around

Airports:

  • Hewanorra International 26.0 km UVF
  • George F L Charles 50.0 km SLU

Other:

  • Beach 3.0 km
  • Shops 3.0 km
  • Restaurant 1.5 km

Rates for Fond Doux

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