Reviewed by
Michael Cullen
From the pine-shaded car park, the tall terracotta manor house with pale blue shutters, stone balustrades and flower-filled amphorae feels quintessentially Tuscan. But step in through the French windows and you'll find clean, crisp living spaces with Starck and Jacobsen furnishings, exuberant artworks and a trendy media-set vibe. Upstairs are 9 cosy bedrooms with pastel colours and unmistakably Tuscan views. Like the house, its owners – 2 English, 1 Italian – combine cosmopolitan flair with Latin charm.
Self-cater or B&B, it's your choice. Stop off for a few nights à deux, and you get B&B par excellence with unbeatable service. Book the main house for a party of 10-18 and you’ve got the pool, tennis courts and gardens to yourselves – plus staff, if you want. For more privacy, or if you're with family, you may prefer their nearby villas for 2-6, which also have a farm-to-table restaurant attached. Either way you’re ideally placed: 10 minutes from the motorway, 20 from Arezzo and Cortona, and bull's-eye-centre for Siena, Florence, Assisi and Orvieto.
Self-cater or B&B, it's your choice. Stop off for a few nights à deux, and you get B&B par excellence with unbeatable service. Book the main house for a party of 10-18 and you’ve got the pool, tennis courts and gardens to yourselves – plus staff, if you want. For more privacy, or if you're with family, you may prefer their nearby villas for 2-6, which also have a farm-to-table restaurant attached. Either way you’re ideally placed: 10 minutes from the motorway, 20 from Arezzo and Cortona, and bull's-eye-centre for Siena, Florence, Assisi and Orvieto.
Highs
- We liked the buzzy sociable atmosphere, with communal lunches and twice-weekly dinner parties
- Good facilities: swimming pool, tennis, bikes, and well-equipped bedrooms
- Guests invariably mention how friendly and helpful the hosts are
- A refreshing change from the sombre, antique-laden décor of most Tuscan hotels
- It's a great base from which to tour all of Tuscany and Umbria; but equally the kind of place you could sit and do very little for days on end
Lows
- It doesn’t come cheap
- The standard rooms are quite small (around 20 sq.m.)
- The sociable atmosphere may not suit shy, retiring types
- Only one room can be twin-bedded, so if you're coming with a (platonic) friend you'll need to book early
Best time to go
The villa is open from mid March to late October; and, for whole villa rentals only, over Christmas and New Year. Best combination of reasonable weather and few crowds, in my opinion, is May or September, with October and April (try and avoid Easter if you can) runners-up. Summer is busy and can be hot.
There’s a host of festivals in nearby Cortona, including a costumed crossbow competition in late May, the Umbrian jazz festival in late July (it’s not strictly in Umbria, but close enough to take part!), an antiques fair in late Aug / early Sep, a film festival in mid-summer (dates vary), and a steak festival with communal BBQ on a 14-metre long grill on Aug 14-15. In Passignano there’s a festive weekend at the end of July with a costumed ladies’ procession on the Saturday and a boat-race (where the boats are carried shoulder-high through the town) for the lads on the Sunday. There’s also a massive communal fish paella at some point in Sept.
There’s a host of festivals in nearby Cortona, including a costumed crossbow competition in late May, the Umbrian jazz festival in late July (it’s not strictly in Umbria, but close enough to take part!), an antiques fair in late Aug / early Sep, a film festival in mid-summer (dates vary), and a steak festival with communal BBQ on a 14-metre long grill on Aug 14-15. In Passignano there’s a festive weekend at the end of July with a costumed ladies’ procession on the Saturday and a boat-race (where the boats are carried shoulder-high through the town) for the lads on the Sunday. There’s also a massive communal fish paella at some point in Sept.
Our top tips
We liked the extra privacy of the Junior Suite - you can dip in and out of whatever's going on at the main house.
Wine buffs should book a visit to La Rendola near Montevarchi (by appointment only), which grows excellent Sangiovese, Merlot and Chardonnay and is “one to watch”
If you enjoy catching up on back copies of Elle and coffee-table design books, you could happily spend a week here.
Wine buffs should book a visit to La Rendola near Montevarchi (by appointment only), which grows excellent Sangiovese, Merlot and Chardonnay and is “one to watch”
If you enjoy catching up on back copies of Elle and coffee-table design books, you could happily spend a week here.