At first, we were skeptical. Why come all the way to Santorini, famed for its breathtaking views over the sea-filled crater, only to stay inland among the whitewashed villages and sun-baked vineyards? But then we unlatched the gate off one of Megalochori's car-free lanes, stepped inside, and were instantly converted. A quite unexpectedly pretty courtyard, laid with round volcanic pebbles and centred on an emerald green plunge pool, was fringed with potted pink geraniums. There were inviting sunbeds, a huge hammock, glimpses of white roofs; the only sounds were the trickle of water and the hourly peal from the blue-domed church.
We stepped inside Sophie's House into 4-metre vaulted sitting room - once the atelier of a 19th century wine merchant - whose thick walls and shuttered windows keep it blissfully cool even in midsummer (though there's A/C too). Off it lies a glorious master bedroom with vast four-poster, and a smaller room where our young son, when not splashing in the pool, slept. There's a chunky pebbled bathroom and a small but serviceable kitchen, too. But most of our time was spent outside: mornings in the courtyard, lunch at the bougainvillea-shaded dining table, evenings at one of the delightful tavernas a few minutes' walk away in the village.
We also looked at the slightly larger Cyan House, a 5-minute walk away in the same village, which sleeps 6 in three separate suites. Expect the same combo of pebbled courtyards, ochre walls and white-washed vaults, with a vast grape-vat bath, a similar plunge pool and no shortage of sheltered sit-outs. For anyone seeking a true hideaway on Santorini, away from the crowded caldera in one of its prettiest villages, either house would make an excellent choice.
Highs
- After the crowds of Oia at sunset, we felt super smug retreating into our walled oasis, with its secluded courtyard and plunge pool
- Megalochori is a pretty whitewashed village: largely car-free, with picturesque churches and friendly little shops
- Sophie's house is perfect for a family with one or two children; or a honeymooning couple on a splurge
- Cyan would suit 2-3 couples travelling together, or a group of friends
- It's great having the option of self-catering or wandering down the lane for a lazy outdoor dinner at Raki, one of the island's loveliest tavernas
Lows
- Service is minimal: after meet-and-greet, you’re left largely alone with the daily maid and pool service, plus a concierge on call
- There's no welcome hamper, so you'll have to stock up on arrival; nearby shops include a late-opening baker and supermarket
- Cyan House has two in-suite kitchenettes rather than a full kitchen, and only a small living-dining space: it's all about al fresco living
- Like all Santorini accommodations, it's not cheap
Best time to go
The houses are open from April to November, and we think May, June and September are the best months to visit, being not too hot. However, even in midsummer, these houses remain cool and relatively quiet, plus they have their own pools for cooling off in.
Bear in mind the minimum 3-night stay. We think 3-5 days is about right for a good exploration of Santorini: it's a small island, and an expensive one too. We'd allow one day for the lava islands boat trip, one for visiting Oia and maybe Skaros, one for the beaches (not the best in the Cyclades), and one for lazing at home.
Bear in mind the minimum 3-night stay. We think 3-5 days is about right for a good exploration of Santorini: it's a small island, and an expensive one too. We'd allow one day for the lava islands boat trip, one for visiting Oia and maybe Skaros, one for the beaches (not the best in the Cyclades), and one for lazing at home.
Our top tips
One of the delights in staying here is the choice of delightful tavernas in the village. Right in the square, just 100m away, summertime Raki has outdoor tables under a shady pergola while Marmita , just opposite, is a classic year-round option. For more upscale dining, we've heard great things about Feggera. and the fantastic wine bar and arts centre, Alisachni.
As for self-catering, there's a great bakery (open 20 hours a day!) in the village, and a couple of small supermarkets just outside. You'll need to buy provisions, as only the basics are supplied: salt, pepper, oil, vinegar, sugar, espresso pods, bottled water, plus with a complimentary bottle of wine if you book through i-escape.
As for self-catering, there's a great bakery (open 20 hours a day!) in the village, and a couple of small supermarkets just outside. You'll need to buy provisions, as only the basics are supplied: salt, pepper, oil, vinegar, sugar, espresso pods, bottled water, plus with a complimentary bottle of wine if you book through i-escape.
Our guests' ratings...
Based on 2 independent reviews from i-escape guests
The houses were beautiful and in a lovely village. The welcome and assistance from Takis and team was exceptional. The kitchens were very basic, cooking was not really an option.
Santorini is not cheap. Is has changed a lot since we were last there (15yrs ago) this place is great to be away from the crazy crowds even with Covid. Would definitely recommend - could combine with a few days overlooking the Caldera. Review on the website is a fair reflection of the House. Really good places to eat.
Feedback is only from guests who have booked and stayed through i-escape