Hotel Budir

Snaefellsnes Peninsula, Reykjavik & West, Iceland
Book from GBP 212

Iceland’s most iconic country hotel offers romance, history, fairytales and gourmet dining in an impossibly wild setting beside a mystical glacier

Iceland’s most iconic country hotel offers romance, history, fairytales and gourmet dining in an impossibly wild setting beside a mystical glacier

It’s all about the location. Hotel Budir (pronounced ‘boothir’) is a 2-hour drive from Reykjavik on the dramatic Snaefellsnes peninsula. To say that the scenery is staggering doesn’t do it justice: extinct volcanoes tower over the road, herds of shaggy Icelandic ponies huddle against the wind and occasional colourful farmhouses scattered beneath the mountains resemble children’s toys because of the scale. At the end of it all, Snaefellsjökull glacier points right up to the heavens, looking to the west as far as Greenland.

Budir is a small country hotel with lashings of tradition, set next to a wide and windswept sandy beach and a romantic church. Seals bob around the inlet, while in the downstairs bar a display of the hotel’s history gives you an idea of what you’ve got into. Walls are adorned with captivating antique lithographs of whale hunting and local wildlife, and pictures of the hotel dating back to its inception, including its legendary 1970s ‘flower children’ phase, when guests partied for days under the midnight sun. There's a gourmet restaurant (frequently rated one of the best in the country) and bedrooms with views you'll struggle to draw the curtains on. This is a wilderness retreat par excellence.

Highs

  • This is Iceland’s most iconic country hotel, with a wealth of hippy history behind it
  • The food is lip-smackingly fresh and exciting, and the restaurant service is excellent
  • The dramatic landscape of this peninsula (volcanoes, glaciers, lighthouses and shipwrecks) is absolutely mind-blowing
  • You can watch seals play in the sea from the bar and maybe even spot the odd whale from the shore; nature-lovers and older kids will love it here
  • The bar has all the hallmarks of a fantastic all-night party setting

Lows

  • Rooms are split between the old and new wings, and there are vastly different styles between the two
  • It’s some distance from the nearest large town, so bring everything with you that you think you’ll need (including toiletries)
  • Menus don't give you a lot of choice - phone ahead to check if you’re picky or have dietary requirements
  • It’s so remote that you’ll need to hire a car
  • We haven't visited since they added the new wing, so our review may be missing some details

Best time to go

Travel in Iceland changes dramatically with the seasons. If you want to see the northern lights, visit from November to April and hope for clear skies. From June to August you can experience the midnight sun (a tip: bring an eye mask as the light can make it hard to sleep, despite heavy blinds). Spring and autumn are also fine times to visit; winter can be problematic and you may need a 4WD if the snow is particularly heavy. The hotel closes on 24 and 25 December.

Our top tips

Take time to drive around the peninsula and experience the full blast of Icelandic nature: ancient volcanic mountains, wheeling clouds of seabirds, lonely lighthouses and impossibly high mountains topped with snow, with the cone-shaped Snaefellsjökull glacier at the centre.

Great for...

Beach
Family
Foodie
Great Outdoors
  • Boutique Hotel
  • 49 rooms
  • Restaurant and bar (open daily)
  • All ages welcome
  • Open all year
  • Pool
  • Spa Treatments
  • On the beach
  • Pet Friendly
  • Disabled Access
  • Car essential
  • Parking
  • Restaurants Nearby
  • WiFi
  • Air Conditioning
  • Guest Lounge
  • Terrace
  • Garden
  • Gym
Room:

Rooms

The 49 rooms and suites at Budir are split between two wings: the original building (which was, in fact, rebuilt in 2002 after the true original structure burned to the ground) and the high-spec new wing. They have very different styles and don't have an equal share of mod-cons, but all come with vast picture windows for viewing the sights.

Rooms in the new wing ooze with contemporary cool. A calming, neutral palette runs throughout: eggshell walls, pale marble bedside tables, and blonde wood floors. Boucle chairs and smooth linen bedspreads add a little softness to the minimalist design. We're yet to see the new rooms for ourselves, but we love the romance of the Master Suite, set in the eaves of the new wing; there's an in-room bathtub and a balcony with panoramic views across the water.

Those in the original wing feel notably older, thanks to their antique bedframes, merchant chests and historic photographs in gilded frames. They're more traditional, darker in design, but still with big windows for soaking in the scenery. On our last visit, we particularly liked one of the Loft Rooms with a bath and a view of the black church nearby, and the Deluxe Rooms with wraparound vistas of the sea and the rocks where seals come to bask.

Those travelling with kids should take a Family Room, which has two connecting double bedrooms, each with an ensuite. If twin beds are a must, book a Standard Room and request two single beds.

Bathrooms are compact and functional. All rooms come with a shower and lovely toiletries, and several have bathtubs. Satellite TVs and hairdryers also come as standard, but you'll need to book one of the newer rooms if you'd like to make your own coffee or tea in the morning.

Features include:

  • Central heating
  • Cots available
  • DVD player
  • Hairdryer
  • TV
  • WiFi

Eating

Eating in the restaurant in full view of the glacier is a delight. Small candles adorn the tables even through the endless summer light, and warm homemade bread and freshly roasted nuts welcome you at your table.

Budir's imaginative cuisine is reputed to be among the finest in the country. The ‘chef’s ‘special’ menu has an Icelandic feel, so it’s heavy on local lamb, fresh fish and whatever else is in season. For dinner our creamy fish soup with fluffy pieces of cod was perfect, the lamb was tender and our delicious desserts were finished with a touch of ‘lava’ (grey-coloured meringue).

It goes without saying that it isn’t cheap (a major drawback if you’re staying for more than a couple of nights) and you don’t get much choice (if you’re vegetarian or likely to be choosy then phone ahead to check what’s on offer). But, as romantic restaurants go, it’s hard to beat.

Breakfast is a generous buffet of cheeses, cold meats and smoked salmon, bread, homemade jam, cereal and pastries, plus a hot station (scrambled eggs, bacon, beans, porridge, pancakes etc) and vegan options. Lunch is available every day and there’s an extensive wine list and a cocktail menu in the well-stocked bar.

As for options for eating out, there’s a café called Fjöruhusið (open in the summer only) in the nearby town of Hella which is known for its excellent fish soup, and a few other places in Stykkisholmur.

Features include:

  • Bar
  • Kids' meals
  • Restaurant
Eating:
Activity:

Activities

  • Take a drive to Snaefellsjökull, the legendary glacier just a few km away. It’s reputedly a seat of ‘new age’ energy and was the fictional starting point for Jules Verne’s Journey to the Centre of the Earth. If you want to splash out, you can view it from the air on a helicopter tour
  • Go snowmobiling - you can rent snowmobiles, snow-suits, gloves and helmets and go on organised trips from the neighbouring hamlet of Arnarstapi (a 15-minute drive away). The journey up and down the glacier only takes a couple of hours, but the view on a clear day is truly breathtaking
  • Follow the numerous hiking routes along the shoreline and around the craters of extinct volcanoes
  • Visit Stykkisholmur (about 1.5 hours from the hotel) and take a boat trip out to the islands in the Breidafjordur fjord. They’re particularly good for bird-watching - you might spot puffins, black guillemots, eider ducks, kittiwakes, fulmars, black-backed gulls and white-tailed eagles
  • Go whale-watching - the waters around the peninsula are considered Europe's best place for spotting blue whale, and you may also see Humpback whales, minke whales, orcas and dolphins
  • Spot seals at Iceland’s largest seal colony at Ytri-Tunga, which lies a short drive down the coast
  • Head off pony trekking over the moon-like landscape - the Budir stables, called Gobbedi gob (meaning ‘clackety-
    clack’) offer short riding trips on Icelandic ponies along sandy beaches and the ancient riding tracks of the Budir lava flow
  • Watch the northern lights paint the evening sky with streaks of green and purple (November to April) or party under the midnight sun (June to August)

Activities on site or nearby include:

  • Birdwatching
  • Boat trips
  • Hiking
  • Historical sites
  • Horse riding
  • Kayaking
  • Plantlife / flora
  • Private guided tours
  • Snowsports
  • Traditional cultures
  • Trekking
  • Whale watching
  • Wildlife

Kids

Children are welcome and will make friends easily with the staff’s children, who play in the sea and kayak in the summer. There are no specific children’s facilities, but who needs them when nature is all around? Kids will enjoy playing hide and seek in the lava fields, watching seals and going on boat trips.

Best for:

Babies (0-1 years), Toddlers (1-4 years), Children (4-12 years)

Family friendly accommodation:

The Family Room is perfect for families of 3-4; it has two connecting double rooms and two bathrooms. Several rooms can fit extra beds, but the Suites offer the most space.

Cots Available, Extra Beds Available

Baby listening:

Bring a baby monitor with you - it will reach through the majority of the hotel from the bar and restaurant to rooms, depending on the make.

Baby equipment:

  • Cots

Remember  baby and child equipment may be limited or need pre-booking

Children's meals:

Iceland is very child-friendly but the food might not be...prepare in advance by stocking up with snacks from the nearest supermarket, in Borganes. The restaurant here is a real highlight for adults but not particularly child friendly.

Kids Activities on site:

  • Beach and inlet outside hotel for swimming, paddling and watching seals
  • Icelandic ponies in nearby fields

Kids Activities nearby:

  • Boat tours from Stykkisholmur
  • Bird watching in Arnastapi
  • Volcano walks
  • Skidoo tours of the glacier

Families Should Know:

It's a wild and windswept place - not somewhere to bring kids who need flashing lights and instant entertainment. There are stairs and the sea is very close by - watch toddlers at all times.

Distances:

  • Airport: 1.5 hours
  • Hospital: 1 hour
  • Doctor: 30 minutes
Kid Friendly:

Location

Hotel Budir is set in the Snaefellsnes Peninsula in western Iceland, around 200 km (around 2 hours by car) from Reykjavik.

By Air
Reykjavik's Keflavik (250km away) is the closest airport and has daily flights from Europe, the US and the UK. Click on the links below for a list of airlines serving it.

From the Airport
Transfers (including by bus or helicopter) can be arranged (see Rates), however a car is recommended (see below).

By Car
Driving is by far the best option as you’ll need a car to explore. For car hire, see our car rental recommendations - a regular compact car is sufficient as the road from Reykjavik to the hotel is paved all the way, but be prepared for a few bumps if you venture onto the smaller country roads. We suggest you spend your first night in Reykjavik and drive to Budir during the day - it's a stunning journey.

Detailed directions will be sent to you when you book through i-escape.com.

More on getting to Iceland and getting around

Airports:

  • Keflavik International 250.0 km KEF

Other:

  • Beach 0.1 km
  • Shops 30.0 km
  • Restaurant 0.1 km

Rates for Hotel Budir