Hotel Budir
Snaefellsnes Peninsula, Reykjavik & West, Iceland
Reviewed by
Laura Dixon
It’s all about the location. Hotel Budir (pronounced ‘boothir’) is a 2-hour drive from Reykjavik on the dramatic Snaefellsnes peninsula. To say that the scenery is staggering doesn’t do it justice: extinct volcanoes tower over the road, herds of shaggy Icelandic ponies huddle against the wind and occasional colourful farmhouses scattered beneath the mountains resemble children’s toys because of the scale. At the end of it all, Snaefellsjökull glacier points right up to the heavens, looking to the west as far as Greenland.
Budir is a small country hotel with lashings of tradition, set next to a wide and windswept sandy beach and a romantic church. Seals bob around the inlet, while in the downstairs bar a display of the hotel’s history gives you an idea of what you’ve got into. Walls are adorned with captivating antique lithographs of whale hunting and local wildlife, and pictures of the hotel dating back to its inception, including its legendary 1970s ‘flower children’ phase, when guests partied for days under the midnight sun. There's a gourmet restaurant (frequently rated one of the best in the country) and bedrooms with views you'll struggle to draw the curtains on. This is a wilderness retreat par excellence.
Budir is a small country hotel with lashings of tradition, set next to a wide and windswept sandy beach and a romantic church. Seals bob around the inlet, while in the downstairs bar a display of the hotel’s history gives you an idea of what you’ve got into. Walls are adorned with captivating antique lithographs of whale hunting and local wildlife, and pictures of the hotel dating back to its inception, including its legendary 1970s ‘flower children’ phase, when guests partied for days under the midnight sun. There's a gourmet restaurant (frequently rated one of the best in the country) and bedrooms with views you'll struggle to draw the curtains on. This is a wilderness retreat par excellence.
Highs
- This is Iceland’s most iconic country hotel, with a wealth of hippy history behind it
- The food is lip-smackingly fresh and exciting, and the restaurant service is excellent
- The dramatic landscape of this peninsula (volcanoes, glaciers, lighthouses and shipwrecks) is absolutely mind-blowing
- You can watch seals play in the sea from the bar and maybe even spot the odd whale from the shore; nature-lovers and older kids will love it here
- The bar has all the hallmarks of a fantastic all-night party setting
Lows
- Rooms are split between the old and new wings, and there are vastly different styles between the two
- It’s some distance from the nearest large town, so bring everything with you that you think you’ll need (including toiletries)
- Menus don't give you a lot of choice - phone ahead to check if you’re picky or have dietary requirements
- It’s so remote that you’ll need to hire a car
- We haven't visited since they added the new wing, so our review may be missing some details
Best time to go
Travel in Iceland changes dramatically with the seasons. If you want to see the northern lights, visit from November to April and hope for clear skies. From June to August you can experience the midnight sun (a tip: bring an eye mask as the light can make it hard to sleep, despite heavy blinds). Spring and autumn are also fine times to visit; winter can be problematic and you may need a 4WD if the snow is particularly heavy. The hotel closes on 24 and 25 December.
Our top tips
Take time to drive around the peninsula and experience the full blast of Icelandic nature: ancient volcanic mountains, wheeling clouds of seabirds, lonely lighthouses and impossibly high mountains topped with snow, with the cone-shaped Snaefellsjökull glacier at the centre.