If Iceland is all about the surreal and quirky - glaciers, volcanoes, moss-covered lava fields and unexpected natural wonders - then Rangá is its poster boy. From the outside it’s a 52-room log-style lodge in the middle of nowhere, 96km east of Reykjavik, with views of Iceland’s legendary Hekla volcano; inside it’s a different story.
You’re greeted by a real stuffed polar bear called Hrammur, somewhat bizarrely. Rooms are strung along two long wood-clad corridors, and there are eight suites, themed to suit the world’s continents. What could be more weird and wonderful than sleeping in a room mocked up to resemble an African safari hut, but looking out to the East Rangá river, stuffed with salmon? The restaurant has an exciting, delicious menu including locally smoked puffin, lamb and wild salmon, and the outdoor hot tubs are one of the best places on earth to watch the winter Northern Light displays. Activity-wise, anything goes for couples, groups and families alike. And I mean anything. Want to see an active volcano? Take a helicopter up Mount Hekla? Dog-sled or glacier-hike? Visit a glacial lagoon? It can all be done.
Highs
- Fantastic location for exploring South Iceland’s delights including Jökulsárlón lagoon, glaciers, volcanoes, and the Golden Circle
- Food is fabulous - the best in the area
- Dizzyingly romantic - drink Champagne in the hot tub, see the Northern Lights in action, go horse riding across wild moors, get married by a waterfall
- Impeccable service - eccentric owner Fridrik is the perfect host and staff will wake you to see the Northern Lights if you ask them to
- All rooms have views - either north towards Hekla volcano and the Aurora or south towards the river and sunshine; some have private balconies, too
Lows
- The bedroom décor - handpainted murals, stuffed animals, bizarre themed suites - is gaudy and, some say, dated; but others find it part of Ranga's charm
- Some rooms have a communal hot tub outside, which restricts your privacy and tranquility
- It's not cheap, but you are in Europe's most expensive country!
- Remote, so you're likely to eat all meals in-house (which isn't a hardship in terms of taste, just budget); veggies don't get a lot of choice
- Most suites have Jacuzzi baths with hand-held showers - not ideal if you just want a shower
Best time to go
Travel in Iceland is very seasonal. If you want to see the Northern Lights, visit from September to April and hope for clear skies – this is one of the best hotels in the world to view them from. From June to August you can experience the midnight sun (tip: bring an eye mask as the light can make it hard to sleep, despite heavy blinds). Spring and autumn are also fine times to visit, while winter can be problematic and you may need a 4WD if the snow is particularly heavy.
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