Umi Hotel
Hvolsvollur, Reykjavik & West, Iceland

Stark, grey and striking: Umi Hotel is a bold addition to the southern Icelandic landscape. The low-rise geometric structure sits in brooding isolation on a windswept plain, between craggy granite mountains and the dramatic black-sand coast. With the ominous Eyjafjallajökull volcano as a backdrop, it might seem like a hostile place, but this untamed wilderness is exactly why you're here. Glittering ice-caps, glacier-fed waterfalls and puffin-filled islands are within easy reach, yet at just 2km off the Ring Road, Umi is far less remote than it actually feels.
The hotel is a family-run operation, and married couple Siggi and Frida, their 2 grown children and the family dog Brekie welcome you with open arms. With only 28 light-filled rooms, it’s under the tour-bus radar. Sleek, modern interiors are softened with cosy rugs and natural wood, inspired by the local landscape. Huge picture windows offer a breathtaking view, whether you’re warming up in the well-stocked bar or sitting down for an à la carte dinner. There's a whole host of activities on offer, from ice-climbing and fishing to horse riding and helicopter tours. However you spend your time, this is ideal for couples, families or friends looking for a stylish base to explore the Icelandic wilderness. We can't wait to visit.
The hotel is a family-run operation, and married couple Siggi and Frida, their 2 grown children and the family dog Brekie welcome you with open arms. With only 28 light-filled rooms, it’s under the tour-bus radar. Sleek, modern interiors are softened with cosy rugs and natural wood, inspired by the local landscape. Huge picture windows offer a breathtaking view, whether you’re warming up in the well-stocked bar or sitting down for an à la carte dinner. There's a whole host of activities on offer, from ice-climbing and fishing to horse riding and helicopter tours. However you spend your time, this is ideal for couples, families or friends looking for a stylish base to explore the Icelandic wilderness. We can't wait to visit.
Highs
- The beautiful, lonely setting with rugged scenery all around; a great base for exploring southern Iceland
- We love the cool, contemporary design with lots of glass, a mirror-clad spa building, and stunning views from every room
- Top-class Icelandic cuisine in the restaurant (cured reindeer in Flóki whisky, lobster tail soup with seaweed) and a delicious breakfast buffet
- Unpolluted skies are ideal conditions for the Northern Lights, and for admiring the midnight sun in summer
- Staff work hard to make your stay special
Lows
- You'll need a car here
- Mattresses are on the firm side
- Luxurious bathrooms have walk-in showers, which means water on the floor
- Nightlife is limited to the hotel bar, restaurant and starry skies; there's nothing else around
- Book ahead; south-coast hotels get booked up quickly, especially in June-August
Best time to go
The south coast is the warmest part of Iceland, but only by a degree or so. High season is summer (June to August) when the days are long and temperatures average around 11C. By September, visitor numbers start to diminish – as do the hours of daylight. The darker months are ideal for winter activities and spotting the Northern Lights. Whatever time of year you visit, it’s important to pack for all seasons and dress in layers as weather conditions can change rapidly.
Our top tips
Umi is located at the foot of Eyjafjallajökull – the infamous volcano that brought European air space to a standstill when it erupted in 2010. For an exhilarating experience, book a helicopter trip and fly over the now-dormant crater. The views of southern Iceland are truly spectacular.