Hotel Nafarrola
Bermeo, The Basque Country, Spain
Reviewed by
Harriet Whiting
Brothers Gaizka and Josu’s family have lived in this unspoilt corner of northern Spain for three generations. Today, the siblings run the gorgeous idyll Nafarrola, a passion project and restored farmhouse set in the lush pine and eucalyptus forests above fishing village Bermeo, just 30 minutes from the cultural hotspot of Bilbao.
If you like being in on the secret, you’ll love hideaway Hotel Nafarrola. With bags of off-radar appeal, rolling countryside-to-Bay of Biscay views and a carefully curated interior design, Nafarrola embraces its heritage with exposed stone walls, old beams and chunky doorframes. Yet its aesthetic is a level up from rusticity – find a contemporary setting which balances designer, mid-century furniture with vast glass windows, overflowing houseplants and a sophisticated hyper-seasonal dining scene run by chef Gaizkha. Even nicer, the suites are spacious cocoons of luxe comfort with jacuzzi bathtubs, terraces with forest or sea views, log burners and tempting, good-value mini bars. Service is warm and friendly – and nearby surf beaches mean wave-riders will feel right at home here, as will foodies, nature-lovers and seclusion-seeking couples.
If you like being in on the secret, you’ll love hideaway Hotel Nafarrola. With bags of off-radar appeal, rolling countryside-to-Bay of Biscay views and a carefully curated interior design, Nafarrola embraces its heritage with exposed stone walls, old beams and chunky doorframes. Yet its aesthetic is a level up from rusticity – find a contemporary setting which balances designer, mid-century furniture with vast glass windows, overflowing houseplants and a sophisticated hyper-seasonal dining scene run by chef Gaizkha. Even nicer, the suites are spacious cocoons of luxe comfort with jacuzzi bathtubs, terraces with forest or sea views, log burners and tempting, good-value mini bars. Service is warm and friendly – and nearby surf beaches mean wave-riders will feel right at home here, as will foodies, nature-lovers and seclusion-seeking couples.
Highs
- A peaceful and natural location – the perfect place to slow down
- There isn’t much owner Josu doesn’t know about the area and he’s happy to share his knowledge
- Delicious dining: made-to-order breakfasts of local produce, tasting-menu lunches and seasonally focused dinners paired with bottles from the wine cellar
- Spoiling comfort in the bedrooms; all with Jacuzzi bathtubs, some with log burners
- Their sustainable ethos includes local forest walks and ceramic studio visits, a zero-food-mile drive, and membership of Europarc's rewilding scheme
Lows
- Walk-in showers that sit within the bedrooms means privacy may be an issue for some guests
- Gently piped music around the restaurant, hallways and outside the bedrooms may not be to everyone’s taste
- The route to the hotel is winding and it’s easy to take a wrong turn – luckily the hotel sends cohesive instructions pre-departure
- Despite Nafarrola’s extensive on-site wine cellar, only a few wines are available by the glass
Best time to go
Summer is peak season and alongside long sunny days and beach weather, you get crowds of holidaying Spanish. If you can, come during spring or autumn which are still warm albeit with some rain, giving you breathing room for sightseeing. The hotel is open except in the months of January and February, so cosying up in the pre-Christmas winter months for a foodie minibreak are also very much an option.
Our top tips
Add time into your itinerary to explore this low-key and untouristy part of Spain – if you plan on visiting the intriguing island of Gaztelugatxe accessible by 200 stone steps along a rocky pathway (known to some as a Game Of Thrones location), you need to book your free ticket online, in advance. Good restaurants nearby are also popular with locals especially in summer and on weekends – make sure you have a reservation a few days ahead.