Kasbah Ellouze
near Ouarzazate, South & desert, Morocco
Reviewed by
Charlotte Sinclair
This remote and romantic kasbah is run with authentic charm and unfussy style by a friendly French couple, Séverine and Franck. Perched on a rocky hill, the Atlas peaks framing the distance, its red adobe towers overlook a startlingly green Garden of Eden. Wheat fields, olive and almond groves, and meadows are intersected by glistening streams, rising out of the expansive ochre landscape. People come here to escape from the world, to soak up the magical atmosphere and to explore the ancient architecture – both natural and man-made. Every vista resembles a film set - you may recognise backdrops from Lawrence of Arabia, Jesus of Nazareth or Gladiator, which was shot in the ramshackle Kasbah Glaoui next door.
In the Kasbah, Labyrinthine corridors twist around the hotel, leading to large terraces with Berber-style cushions, low carved tables and dreamy views over the lush gardens, where swallows wheel and dive at sunset. Off the central tiled courtyard, with its bubbling fountain, are several lounges, an informal dining room (and adjoining terrace), an outdoor heated pool and a handful of simple but homely bedrooms. Life moves slowly here and Kasbah Ellouze remains its best-kept (and best value) secret.
Highs
- Bucolic surroundings- snow-capped peaks, red-walled forts, stunning gardens - and the romance of staying in an ancient kasbah, with hidden corners, stairs and multi-level terraces
- Tasty home-cooked 3-course dinners with creative, daily-changing dishes (and it's included in the rates!)
- Activities include fantastic guided walks visiting ancient kasbahs and troglodyte caves
- The stunning Unesco-listed Ait Benhaddou kasbah is only 3km away, and this area makes a great stopover between Marrakech and the southern deserts
- Great value for money
Lows
- Some rooms don’t have a view of the garden, and design buffs may not relish the simple, homely décor
- Don't expect any nightlife, other than an occasional visit from local musicians
- Touts can be a hassle at nearby sights like Ait Benhaddou, but the village around the kasbah is wonderfully relaxed
- Expect the odd fly over dinner and a bit of dust in your room: you're out in the sticks after all
- We haven't visited since Séverine and Franck took over from Michel and Colette, but early feedback is very promising
Best time to go
Spring (April and May) are best for the climate and the garden - the roses are in bloom and it’s not too hot to walk. Autumn (September and October) also brings comfortable temperatures, though the gardens won't be quite so pretty.
Our top tips
If you don’t speak French, it’s a good idea to take a phrase book with you as many of the locals do not speak English - though most of Kasbah Ellouze's staff speak a little.