Sawadi
near Ouarzazate, South & desert, Morocco
Reviewed by
Charlotte Sinclair
Nestling in the palmeraie de skoura, near the breathtaking Dades gorge, Sawadi is a magical place which feels not only miles from anywhere but also several centuries in the past. It's reached down a rocky 5-mile track that crosses a oued (river bed) and curves past walled gardens, tall palms and mud houses where children peep shyly through windows.
After the dusty plains, the impressive red-mud entrance and towering wooden gates open to a welcome sight: a gleaming pool and lush lawns. Flower-lined paths lead to colourful, comfortable rooms housed in 6 miniature kasbahs, built in Berber style with straw and mud bricks. Behind lie 3.3 hectares of farmland: fruit orchards, grape vines, meadow flowers, sheep and donkeys, and a huge vegetable patch whose carrots, onion, mint, lemons, courgettes and olives are used in the kitchen. With only the sound of trickling water and birdsong, you'll find utter tranquillity - whether lying by the pool, hiking in the gorges or riding horses through the palmeraie.
After the dusty plains, the impressive red-mud entrance and towering wooden gates open to a welcome sight: a gleaming pool and lush lawns. Flower-lined paths lead to colourful, comfortable rooms housed in 6 miniature kasbahs, built in Berber style with straw and mud bricks. Behind lie 3.3 hectares of farmland: fruit orchards, grape vines, meadow flowers, sheep and donkeys, and a huge vegetable patch whose carrots, onion, mint, lemons, courgettes and olives are used in the kitchen. With only the sound of trickling water and birdsong, you'll find utter tranquillity - whether lying by the pool, hiking in the gorges or riding horses through the palmeraie.
Highs
- Utter peace in acres of walled gardens lovingly planted with flowers and sowed for organic produce - an absolute beauty!
- Great for families: it's safe, there's lots to do (bikes, donkeys, pool) and there are family suites)
- Magical oasis-like setting where huge mountains and gorges cede to flat desert, palm groves, mud-built villages and sparkling lakes - lots to explore
- Sunset views of the Atlas peaks and star-filled night skies
- Charming French owners, Phillippe and Catherine, and lovely staff
Lows
- The remote location makes it easy to get lost, so try and arrive in the daytime (or book a car with driver) - detailed directions are provided on confirmation
- The nearest restaurant is 45km - but the food here is delicious and home-grown
- 5 hours from Marrakech airport, but the drive through the Atlas Mountains is amazing!
- Rooms are a bit dark but homely - fine by us as you don't come here to stay indoors
Best time to go
March, April, early May and September are the best months to visit. Temperatures are scorching in the summer, although at an altitude of 1190 metres, the air is refreshingly cooler than in Marrakech. The gardens are pretty in spring and autumn and the slightly cooler days means it’s not too hot for excursions.
Our top tips
At night, take a rug outside and star-gaze: with no light pollution for miles around, you'll see more stars than you ever imagined possible.