Les Jardins de Skoura
Skoura, South & desert, Morocco
Reviewed by
Lucy Richardson
Well and truly off the beaten track - you leave the tarmac road, following orange and white markers past kasbahs, small villages and dry river beds - Les Jardins de Skoura is an oasis of stylish accommodation. It's set in huge gardens, about 40km from Ouarzazate, crammed with sunflowers, vines, apricot, olive and pomegranate trees. Each of the 8 individually styled rooms and suites has unfussy, quirky furnishings, contributing to a laid back and comfortable atmosphere.
All credit goes to Caroline, the French owner, who developed the guest house from an old farm ruin, working with over 20 builders for 18 months. She is justifiably proud of her achievement, and we can vouch for the excellent service - and food - which she provides. We enjoyed 3 blissful days walking among palm groves and ruined kasbahs, relaxing in hammocks, swimming in the heated pool (a delight even in the hot summer) and exploring the breathtaking landscapes of the Atlas foothills, including Ait Ben Haddou and the Dades gorge. This is southern Morocco at its very best.
All credit goes to Caroline, the French owner, who developed the guest house from an old farm ruin, working with over 20 builders for 18 months. She is justifiably proud of her achievement, and we can vouch for the excellent service - and food - which she provides. We enjoyed 3 blissful days walking among palm groves and ruined kasbahs, relaxing in hammocks, swimming in the heated pool (a delight even in the hot summer) and exploring the breathtaking landscapes of the Atlas foothills, including Ait Ben Haddou and the Dades gorge. This is southern Morocco at its very best.
Highs
- Secluded, remote and relaxing, with great views of the High Atlas
- Delicious traditional dinners included in the room rate and served every evening in the beautiful garden (or inside in winter with an open fire)
- Spacious rooms, all with living areas
- Caroline can arrange for half-day or day-trips to the Dades and Draa valleys, as well as donkey rides on site
- Ideal stopover between Marrakech (4.5 hours) and the Sahara dunes at Azawad (4.5 hours)
Lows
- The nearest airport at Ouarzazate has few flights so expect a long drive in (4.5 hours from Marrakech)
- The track to the hotel is very bumpy and difficult to drive along; ideally you need a 4x4, and it's not recommended to arrive in the dark
- No twin beds, but most rooms have extra beds
- Ouarzazate is not a pretty town (though film buffs will love it), and don't expect any nightlife
Best time to go
The guesthouse is shut for a week in January and 2 weeks in June. The winter can apparently be cool, especially at night, and the height of summer can see temperatures soar well over 40C. Spring and autumn are probably the best times to visit.
Our top tips
Keen photographers will adore the extraordinary, photogenic landscapes of Kasbah Amerhidil and the much-filmed hilltown of Ait Ben Haddou.