Liodentra
Kardamyli, Peloponnese, Greece
Reviewed by
Jane Foster
Hidden away in a pretty walled garden, a stone's throw from Ritsa white-pebble beach, Liodentra is a haven of calm. Planted with olive trees, fragrant rosemary and lavender, the gardens centre on a pool and wooden deck with sunbeds, parasols and big terracotta urns. Two natural stone villas each sleep 4-5, with a separate annexe for 2 if you need it. There's also a shared barbecue, and a children's play area with swings, slide and a seesaw.
The quaint fishing village of Kardamyli lies a 10-minute walk along the coast. It's made up of old stone cottages, with a pretty main square rimmed by cafes, where locals meet to put the world to rights. Overlooking the deep blue waters of the Messinian Gulf, the entire scene is presided over by the rugged Taygetus mountains; hike up the spectacular Viros Gorge into the heart of the range. Kardamyli is the gateway to the Mani, a region known for its dramatic rocky landscapes, medieval tower houses and a history of blood feuds. Most Greeks consider the region wild and remote, but that's also its appeal - it remains relatively undiscovered.
The quaint fishing village of Kardamyli lies a 10-minute walk along the coast. It's made up of old stone cottages, with a pretty main square rimmed by cafes, where locals meet to put the world to rights. Overlooking the deep blue waters of the Messinian Gulf, the entire scene is presided over by the rugged Taygetus mountains; hike up the spectacular Viros Gorge into the heart of the range. Kardamyli is the gateway to the Mani, a region known for its dramatic rocky landscapes, medieval tower houses and a history of blood feuds. Most Greeks consider the region wild and remote, but that's also its appeal - it remains relatively undiscovered.
Highs
- Great for families: each villa has a spacious living area, a double and a twin bedroom, full kitchen and outdoor dining
- Bring another family - or get together with a group of 8-12 friends - and you can hire the whole place
- Ritsa beach is 50m away; swim in azure waters before breakfast or as the sun sets. Liodentra has its own exclusive umbrellas
- Interiors are tastefully furnished and comfortable
- Kardamyli offers a modest choice of cafes, restaurants and shops, without feeling touristy
Lows
- The owners prefer to rent out the whole estate, and only offer individual villas in low season or at short notice
- If sharing the estate, be aware the villas are adjacent - so not totally private - and share a pool
- No cooking facilities in the annexe; best for a couple who are happy to eat out
- It's 10 mins' walk from the village shops and restaurants: you'll probably want a hire car
- Not the easiest place to reach: limited flights into Kalamata or a 3-hour drive from Athens
Best time to go
Shoulder season periods (May-Jun and Sep-Oct) are the best times to visit, when it's nice and sunny, with the sea warm enough to swim, but the beach and village not too hot and crowded. Spring and autumn are the best times for hiking too, and you're more likely to find cheap flights during these months. In peak season (Jul-Aug) the region gets very busy, with Greek visitors as well as foreigners, and temperatures can soar to over 100°F (38°C).
Our top tips
Pack a copy of Mani: Travels in the South Peloponnese by British travel writer and adventurer Patrick Leigh Fermor (1915-2011), who used to live in Kardamyli. It's beautifully written, and highly regarded by both Greeks and foreigners as a reliable and amusing source of Maniot history.