Astypalaia is one of those remote Greek islands most people have never heard of - but those who have keep coming back. Savvy travellers have snapped up holiday houses beneath Castro, the 13th-century castle that crowns the hilltop town of Chora. A handful of smart little hotels have cropped up to cater for the rest of us. But until Melograno opened in 2013, there were no luxury villas for rent. Thankfully, Michalis Savvas - a local entrepreneur, who also runs a bar, supermarket and souvlaki joint - spotted a gap in the market.
First, Michalis found the site: a steep hill on the outskirts of Chora, with stunning views of its whitewashed houses tumbling down to the old harbour. Then, he and his charming wife Maria travelled to 5-star hotels all over Greece for inspiration, before building the 3 adjoining villas. Each is subtly different, but all share a feeling of laid-back luxury. With huge living/dining areas, great kitchens, designer bathrooms and sea-view terraces, they are ideal for couples, families or a gang of friends. Plush beds and outdoor jacuzzis are a big draw, too; we found it hard to leave and explore this beautifully rugged island.
Highs
- Spectacular views of the Castro, harbour and sea
- Utter convenience: a 24-hour concierge, meals can be delivered and there’s an honesty fridge for snacks/drinks
- Masses of space, both indoors and out on the terraces
- Good value for a luxe rental, especially since rates include breakfast
- Astypalaia itself; a hidden gem with wild landscapes and welcoming locals, beautiful beaches and historical charm
Lows
- Tricky to get to (a hopper flight or 9-hour ferry from Athens), but the island's remoteness is its appeal
- One 'bedroom' in each villa is a cushioned platform in the living area. Best suited to 2 guests (Ble/Verde) or 4 guests (Bianca)
- You'll want a car; it's a 10-minute walk to Chora's shops and restaurants
- No pools and the nearest beach is a 5-minute drive, but each villa has an outdoor jacuzzi to cool off in
- Your neighbours may feel too close when you're all out on the terraces, but there are awnings for privacy
Best time to go
In August, Astypalaia is inundated with (mostly Greek and Italian) visitors and availability is limited. June and September are ideal - though many local establishments don’t open until late June and close by September 15. With fireplaces and proper kitchens, the villas would also make a cosy base in spring and autumn, especially for keen walkers.
Our top tips
Bring walking shoes - most of the best beaches are accessible only by boat or on foot. Ayios Ioannis (St John) beach, on the barren northwest coast, is a fairly stiff 1-hour hike down a dramatic valley watered by rock pools. The secluded pebble beach is often deserted. Watching sunset from the cliff-top monastery of the same name after climbing back up the hill is unforgettable.
Location
Astypalaia is the westernmost island in the Dodecanese. The Melograno Villas are on the outskirts of Chora, the main small town.
By Air:
There are regular flights from Athens to the tiny airport of Astypalaia (aka Panaghia), 12km away. There may also be flights from Leros or Rhodes. Check Sky Express and Aegean Air or ask the property when making your enquiry.
From the Airport
Free transfers are provided, and the island is small, so you may not need a car. If you want to hire one, there are several local companies; do consider getting a jeep as most roads are unpaved. Each villa has a covered parking space. In August, it’s better to walk into town, as parking around the main square is impossible.
By Ferry:
There are ferries from Piraeus via Paros - Naxos - Amorgos, or from Rhodes via Kos - Kalymnos; both routes will take several hours, but you can often get a cheap cabin.
Detailed directions will be sent to you when you book through i-escape.com.
More on getting to Greece and getting around
Airports:
- Astypalaia (aka Panaghia) 14.0 km JTY
Other:
- Beach 3.0 km
- Shops 2.0 km
- Restaurant 2.0 km
Our guests' ratings...
Based on 1 independent review from i-escape guests
We stayed in Villa Ble. It was beautifully designed and very comfortable. Everything is thoughtfully designed and hi-spec. The only slight niggles were that we were told the hot tub couldn't be heated in the evenings (the water was a bit chilly) so we didn't use it. The kitchen is not as well-appointed as the description on your website - for example no frying pan - although I'm sure if we'd asked they'd have got one for us. Consequently we didn't cook while we were thre. Michalis (the owner) could not have been more welcoming and we really appreciated the airport transfer and concierge service. Ismini, who was our main point of contact during our stay was incredibly helpful and responsive and booked tables at restaurants and enquired about trips for us. We appreciated the daily breakfasts which were lovely and generous. The views from the villa are amazing and an absolute highlight of the location. It's about a 10-15 minute walk into Chora or the port below the Chora. Both are lovely.
We hadn't been to Astypalaia before but it's stunningly beautiful, if you like your beauty simple and rocky with expansive sea views. You need a car to get to the beaches and some of the roads can be a little challenging (rough, winding, mountain tracks). Driving down some of them wouldn't be relaxing for some people. That said, the AstyBus ride-sharing system is brilliant once you get the hang of the app (it's ride sharing not a taxi, so you have to buy a pass per traveller per trip), and you could potentially have a car-free holiday if you stuck to the more accessible beaches. All the island's beaches are stunning, most are pebbly, but the snorkelling is good in most places. We saw a lot of different fish! Bring walking shoes as the paths down to the beaches can be stony and shingly. And in the Chora and Port, be prepared for lots of hills and steps to climb. The Chora is a pretty chic place and some classy boutiques, cocktail bars, and decent restaurants catering to Athenians, locals, Italians and a few yachties. Restaurants: Akti has an amazing location teetering on a cliff above the sea, serving good fish dishes. Almyra in Maltezana was our favourite, serving a simple but imaginatively different menu using only local produce with great sea views. In Chora, Navagos has a lovely view of the port and you eat under a huge plane tree. The menu is simple but a bit different from standard taverna fare with good vegetarian options. Trips: we had a lovely boat trip with Avra cruises on their motoring schooner (they put the sails up for smaller groups/private tours). It was relaxed and we swam at the beautiful Red Rock.
We had a fantastic time in Astypalaia and have fallen a little in love with it. We hope to go back as soon as we can, and would stay at Melograno Villas again.
Feedback is only from guests who have booked and stayed through i-escape