Pylaia Hotel
Astypalaia, Greece
Reviewed by
Rachel Howard
When we told an English couple who own a house on Astypalaia that we were staying at Pylaia Hotel, they sniggered: “Ooh, rich people!”. In fact, the slickest hotel on this remote, rugged outcrop is neither hugely expensive nor hugely luxurious. But anything remotely fancy is a novelty on Astypalaia, an island of wild landscapes and welcoming locals that’s still relatively undiscovered. So Pylaia - a 27-room hotel on the outskirts of Chora with a small spa, twin pools and an upscale restaurant - seems almost out of place.
Owner Dimitris Petridenas clearly has ambitions to put Astypalaia on the map: he also runs Akti, the island’s poshest seafood restaurant, and the Iliana bakery, which produces (and exports) the delicious saffron and almond biscuits given to i-escape guests as a welcome gift. His wife Anna is the local music teacher. From the lifesize papier-mâché donkey in the dazzlingly white lobby to the sophisticated dishes at the in-house restaurant, Pylaia Hotel is a classy choice.
Owner Dimitris Petridenas clearly has ambitions to put Astypalaia on the map: he also runs Akti, the island’s poshest seafood restaurant, and the Iliana bakery, which produces (and exports) the delicious saffron and almond biscuits given to i-escape guests as a welcome gift. His wife Anna is the local music teacher. From the lifesize papier-mâché donkey in the dazzlingly white lobby to the sophisticated dishes at the in-house restaurant, Pylaia Hotel is a classy choice.
Highs
- Smiling staff always ready to go the extra mile
- Wonderful food (eg monkfish with lemon, fennel and lemongrass) and views in the top-floor restaurant
- And an excellent buffet breakfast with local specialities
- Spacious, romantic rooms with great beds by Cocomat, plus a self-catering apartment that's useful for families
- Lovely beaches within walking and biking distance, including Livadi, the island's best
Lows
- Tricky to get to (a hopper flight or 9-hour ferry from Athens), but the island's remoteness is its appeal
- Built on a steep slope, the hotel's split-level layout is a little awkward - and not suitable for toddlers
- Although all rooms have outdoor space, few balconies and terraces are really private; rooms by the pools can be noisy
- Bathrooms are not well ventilated, and some are tiny
- The pools are too small for proper swimming
Best time to go
The hotel is open from May to mid-October. Availability is limited in August, when Astypalaia is at its busiest - too busy for some. Many restaurants and bars operate a very short season from mid-June to mid-September. The weather can be unpredictable towards the end of the season.
Our top tips
On August 14-16, there’s a major church festival at Panagia Portraitissa in Chora, with festivities including blindfolded yoghurt feeding and climbing a greasy pole to catch a fake rooster!