Picture, if you can, how a playboy prince in a far-flung corner of Rajasthan would decorate the interiors of his palace. Struggling? Thankfully, designer Ayush Kasiwal and host Karan Singh have done it for you. Their vividly re-imagined abode of the late Maharaja Narendra Singh – polymath, card player, dog lover extraordinaire – brings his enigmatic character back to life. You'll find an eclectic mix of ‘Indian déco’ and curios collected from his world travels, whilst elaborate gilded mirrors and old family portraits adorn the intensely chromatic walls. The centrepiece is a royal red baby grand piano, with Edith Piaf’s memorable maxim “Non, je ne regrette rien” inscribed in gold lettering. Familiar jazz tunes fill the foyer, setting the tone for what’s to come.
Despite the grand exterior, the atmosphere is surprisingly homely, thanks in no small measure to your convivial host, Karan. 82 bedrooms embody the spirit of the erstwhile Maharaja – Rajput furnishings, terrazzo floors, luxe velvet armchairs – and are simultaneously opulent and comforting. Dining is an experience in itself, with elaborate Indian and Western dishes served at the hotel's restaurant Pearls & Chiffon (the sartorial choice of every Indian maharani). A short drive from town, the hotel organises expertly led tours of Bikaner's famed havelis (mansions), as well as private museum visits, camel or jeep safaris, and candlelit sundowner picnics by a lakeside oasis.
Highs
- Remarkable value for the opulent experience
- Packed to the rafters with objets d’art, it's reminiscent of an enormous antiques warehouse
- We loved the rooftop pool with its Portuguese tiles and shaded sun loungers
- Honesty bars, sweet bowls, and proper tea- and coffee-making facilities keep it homely; beds are phenomenally comfortable
- Bikaner, Rajasthan's 'Red City', is a less touristy alternative to Jaisalmer, but with the same desert outpost feel
Lows
- As with all luxury hotels, there's a hefty 28% tax - but it's still great value
- There's little to do around the hotel itself, but they will arrange a car for you at the drop of a hat
- The hotel is in a residential area and looks out over the town
- The hotel occasionally hosts weddings, which can be noisy affairs; ask when booking if they have any planned
Best time to go
November to February are the best months to visit Bikaner, when it's hot (but not scorching) during the day and cool in the evenings; if you’re in town in January be sure to visit the annual Bikaner Camel Festival. October and March are quieter months but can reach close to 40C in the heat of the day. From April onwards, temperatures exceed 40C with a brief respite during August’s monsoon.
Our top tips
Dip your nose into one of the many books (there are over 1000). They are what the designers imagined Maharaja Narendra Singh would have kept in his own private library. Also take the time to get to know the host himself, Karan, who seems to embody the erstwhile Maharaja. He’ll be glad to join for a Martini or 2 (who’s counting?).