As you wind your way along a sandstone drive just off Jaisalmer’s dusty highway, you'll be forgiven for thinking you're witnessing a mirage. Up ahead, the fortress-like walls of Suryagarh rise up out of the Thar Desert like a vision of a bygone age: it's a spell-binding sight. Translated as the ‘House of Sun’, the hotel is a mixture of ancient and modern delights. Manager Karan (perhaps maître d' is a more accurate epithet) is the perfect host, overseeing every last detail with total finesse. From the sound of babbling fountains as you enter to the rose-scented facial spray and traditional 'mithai' (Indian sweets) that await in your marvellous room, even your arrival is special - and sets the tone for pleasures to come.
There are tranquil grounds to wander, and a surplus of modern comforts can be found near the cavernous courtyard. The Rait spa offers traditional Indian treatments and their own signature ‘sand’ ritual; a comprehensively equipped gym includes an Indian Kushti wrestling ring, and there's an indoor pool decorated in peacock blue tiles. As for the food, it's delicious across 3 restaurants: Nosh (all-day casual), Legends of Marwar (fine dining) and Draksh (a genteel bar). Finely balancing old and new worlds, this desert oasis is mesmerising on the senses.
Highs
- The service is truly exemplary. (The Best Exotic Marigold Hotel this is not.)
- An immersive activities programme tells the history of Jaisalmer better than any tour guide could
- The 72 rooms are palatial and full of character. Comfy beds ensure an excellent sleep, and the biggest suites have private pools
- Fantastic value
- No ‘watered down’ tourist food here - only authentic Rajasthani menus and delicious Western cuisine
Lows
- Discreet boutique hotel lovers might find the size and grandeur of the place all 'a bit much'
- Jaisalmer’s recent embracing of wind turbines somewhat spoils the near-perfect desert horizon
- While the WiFi has decent speed, it drops intermittently
Best time to go
November to February are hot, dry months, though the evenings in December and January get quite chilly. In February the city hosts the annual Desert Festival, when sands come alive with colourfully-robed camel traders. However, if you want to avoid the blistering sun, visit from September to March.
Our top tips
There's no escaping sun, so wear long & light cottons with open-toe sandals - the clothing of choice for Jaisalmer residents. You can purchase these from the city markets, but if you don't like to haggle you can find a few gorgeous pieces in Misri, the on-site boutique.
Location
The Suryagarh is located in the heart of the Thar Desert in western Rajasthan. It's 15 minutes by taxi from Jaisalmer city.
By Air
Jaisalmer Airport is only 27km away, reachable on a hopper flight from Jodhpur Airport (285km). Jodhpur is the closest major airport that's open all year round, and Delhi Indira Gandhi serves as the gateway to India for most international flights. The hotel can arrange a transfer from either airport. Click on the links below for more information.
By Train:
Indian Railways offers regular services to Jaisalmer from all the major cities in Rajhastan, including Jodhpur, Jaipur, Bikaner, Barmer, Jaore and Ahemdabad. The hotel can collect you from the station.
Detailed directions will be sent when you book through i-escape.
More on getting to Rajasthan and getting around
Airports:
- Jaisalmer Airport 27.0 km JSA
- Jodhpur 285.0 km JDH
Other:
- Beach 999.0 km
- Shops 2.0 km
- Restaurant 2.0 km
Our guests' ratings...
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