The Serai
Near Jaisalmer, Jaisalmer & Bikaner, India
Reviewed by
Cathy Teesdale
Designed by passionate conservationists Anjali and Jaisal Singh – who are no slouches at creating luxury tented camps – The Serai is an ode to peace, open space and old-fashioned elegance. The 21 tented suites, set deep in the tranquil Thar desert but just an hour from Jaisalmer, are an impossibly romantic set-up, and perfect for honeymooners. Each white canvas tent is raised on honeyed sandstone, with a terrace lounge, sitting room with writing desk, air-con bedroom and a stylish, double-sink bathroom. Six have private candlelit plunge pools, and there's also a Royal Tented Suite with its own pool, spa, lounge and dining tents, set in an exclusive, walled-off compound.
Loving care has been taken over every detail, most harking back to the Victorian days of the Raj: beside your bed you'll find monogrammed notepaper and brass-plated service buttons ('Butler, 'Housekeeping' and 'Security'), alongside modern novels rebound in classic vellum and glass-stoppered bottles filled with KAMA toiletries. Raised above the tents and silver scrub is an infinity swimming pool, circled by pagoda-shaded loungers. Behind, a huge pavilion holds a leather-and-tartan lounge, breezy reception and tasteful dining room. To the left, within a walled garden, sits a 4-tent Sujan spa created by Raison d'Etre (whose products are blended from Indian plants and spices), and beyond, an organic garden for the herbs, salad and vegetables in the delicious cordon bleu menu. The only sounds are trickling water, calls of kookaburra and wild peacocks, and the whispering wind.
Loving care has been taken over every detail, most harking back to the Victorian days of the Raj: beside your bed you'll find monogrammed notepaper and brass-plated service buttons ('Butler, 'Housekeeping' and 'Security'), alongside modern novels rebound in classic vellum and glass-stoppered bottles filled with KAMA toiletries. Raised above the tents and silver scrub is an infinity swimming pool, circled by pagoda-shaded loungers. Behind, a huge pavilion holds a leather-and-tartan lounge, breezy reception and tasteful dining room. To the left, within a walled garden, sits a 4-tent Sujan spa created by Raison d'Etre (whose products are blended from Indian plants and spices), and beyond, an organic garden for the herbs, salad and vegetables in the delicious cordon bleu menu. The only sounds are trickling water, calls of kookaburra and wild peacocks, and the whispering wind.
Highs
- Memorable excursions: camel safaris, guided tours of Jaisalmer Fort and soulful concerts by world-class local folk musicians
- One press of a brass-plated button and your butler is at your tent
- Sundowners in the desert dunes: languish in a leather chair and drink cocktails as the sky turns pink
- That seldom-achieved level of hospitality: privacy when you want it, service when you need it
- Flights to Jaisalmer Airport, just an hour’s drive away, have made the camp much more accessible
Lows
- Lizards, birds and insects can colonise your tent if you inadvertently leave your flaps open and lights on - though press a button and staff will 'return them to the wild'
- The tall, freestanding air con units in your tent bedroom must guzzle a ton of electricity
- If staying more than a few days, the limited menu could get a bit repetitive
- Very pricey, but this is a once-in-a-lifetime experience
Best time to go
The Serai is only open between 1 September and 1st April, as summer in the Thar desert is just TOO hot. The general manager's recommendation is late November, before the crowds arrive and when the weather is starting to cool down, which makes it the perfect time to savour all the magic of Jaisalmer Fort at your leisure.
Our top tips
Make sure you book a few nights here, if not a week, as it's so blissfully serene and comfortable you won't want to leave. Sunset on the dunes is a quintessential Rajasthani experience. Also, don't miss the opportunity to hear the Manganiyar musicians play for you in their own village - they're literally world class and play with such passion that the experience is spellbinding.