Reviewed by
Abi Dare
History seeps from every corner of this 18th-century mansion. It’s set in the peaceful, gently Bohemian district of Lapa, long a favourite with writers and artists. It was this very palacio which Madonna took over as her Lisbon home during 2018-19, and keen book worms might recognise it as the setting for author Eça de Queiroz’s classic 1888 novel Os Maias. But even if you know nothing about the Queen of Pop or Portuguese literature, we wager that you’ll be seduced by the elegant architecture and serene ambiance here.
The rooms and suites have been skilfully woven into the structure of the old house - all are different, and all are packed with original features. One is clad in handsome oak panelling; another sits in the former kitchen, with sofas beneath a huge stone hearth. There’s also a trio of azulejo-lined lounges, a bar serving the kind of sophisticated drinks you’d expect (including 10 different takes on the G&T), and even a secret passageway hidden behind a revolving dresser. Perhaps the biggest draw is the tiered courtyard outside, where daybeds and glowing lanterns are scattered among pots of fragrant roses and jacaranda. Crowning it all is a small palm-shaded pool on the upper level, where you can lie back, gaze out over the rooftops to the River Tagus beyond, and completely forget you’re in one of Europe’s busiest capitals.
The rooms and suites have been skilfully woven into the structure of the old house - all are different, and all are packed with original features. One is clad in handsome oak panelling; another sits in the former kitchen, with sofas beneath a huge stone hearth. There’s also a trio of azulejo-lined lounges, a bar serving the kind of sophisticated drinks you’d expect (including 10 different takes on the G&T), and even a secret passageway hidden behind a revolving dresser. Perhaps the biggest draw is the tiered courtyard outside, where daybeds and glowing lanterns are scattered among pots of fragrant roses and jacaranda. Crowning it all is a small palm-shaded pool on the upper level, where you can lie back, gaze out over the rooftops to the River Tagus beyond, and completely forget you’re in one of Europe’s busiest capitals.
Highs
- A wonderful respite from the noise and heat of the city - and it’s one of the few boutique hotels in Lisbon with its own pool
- The feel is refined, romantic and authentic, yet far from stuffy - this is a place where you can really unwind
- The delicious breakfast spread - one of the best we’ve tasted in Portugal. There's also a selection of tapas-style dishes - ideal with cocktails or a glass of wine
- The renowned National Museum of Ancient Art is just down the road, and nearby Tram 15 will whizz you downtown or to the historic sights of Belém in 10 minutes
- Warm, welcoming staff who are clearly passionate about the building and its past
Lows
- This is a quiet, residential area a little way from the city centre - not ideal if you want to be in the heart of the action
- There’s no lift, so you’ll have to climb up several flights of stairs to reach the top-floor rooms (though staff will help with luggage)
- The pool, and its deck, are small - get there early if you want to nab a lounger
- Only a couple of twin rooms (it's best suited to couples), though there are extra beds and baby cots for little ones allowed in the Suites
Best time to go
Lisbon is a year-round city, and even in the height of summer Atlantic breezes mean temperatures here are more bearable than elsewhere in southern Europe. If you want to make the most of the courtyard and pool then visit between May and September, but the lounges and bar mean this is a wonderful base in any season.
Our top tips
If the hotel’s beautiful architecture inspires you to learn more about Portuguese tiles, take a taxi or bus to the Museu Nacional do Azulejo, where you’ll find examples from the 15th century onwards, together with modern interpretations. The museum also houses a vast panel depicting Lisbon as it was before the 1755 earthquake destroyed much of the city.