Saiaz Getaria
Getaria, The Basque Country, Spain
Reviewed by
Tom Bell
The Basque people love Getaria - whenever you mention it, they break out in nostalgic smiles as if remembering the happiest days of their life. And when you get here, you see why. It’s a cute little place, with a happy vibe and a lovely beach that’s popular with locals at weekends. Potter about and you find a small harbour for local fishing boats, some good restaurants that serve the freshest fish, and a small marina that’s home to a clutch of posh yachts; day trips over to San Sebastián can be arranged.
As for this lovely hotel, it sits on a narrow street at the top of the Old Town, with views to the west of sea and sky. The house dates from the 15th century and was probably a defence of sorts, as several arrow slits survive. Behind its façade of golden stone you find a pretty mix of old and new: mullioned windows, wood and antiques mixed with bright rugs and throws. Prices are great and local staff go the extra mile. There are 18 attractive bedrooms, which all have a warm, homely feel. Some are big, others smaller; several have magnificent sea views (the house stands at the top of a cliff, with waves rolling in below). There’s a big sitting room that looks the right way, plus a terrace where we watched the sun go down with a glass of wine in hand. It's popular with couples, but welcoming to families, too. As for the beach and those excellent restaurants, you won’t have to walk far.
As for this lovely hotel, it sits on a narrow street at the top of the Old Town, with views to the west of sea and sky. The house dates from the 15th century and was probably a defence of sorts, as several arrow slits survive. Behind its façade of golden stone you find a pretty mix of old and new: mullioned windows, wood and antiques mixed with bright rugs and throws. Prices are great and local staff go the extra mile. There are 18 attractive bedrooms, which all have a warm, homely feel. Some are big, others smaller; several have magnificent sea views (the house stands at the top of a cliff, with waves rolling in below). There’s a big sitting room that looks the right way, plus a terrace where we watched the sun go down with a glass of wine in hand. It's popular with couples, but welcoming to families, too. As for the beach and those excellent restaurants, you won’t have to walk far.
Highs
- Rooms with sea views are magical, worth splashing out on
- The Old Town with its pintxo bars, the cool beach, the fishing boats - there’s lots of character here, and it's a very civilised place to do very little. And the Cristóbal Balenciaga museum is heaven for fashionistas
- Elkano, one of the Basque region's best restaurants, is only 50 paces from the front door
- Monte de San Antón (the hill that rolls into the sea; known as the Mouse of Getaria) is a great spot to sit and watch the sun go down
- Beautiful San Sebastián is only 30 minutes away by car
Lows
- The hotel closes from mid-December until 1st March, so it might take a while to receive a response to your enquiry
- Breakfast is the only meal served, and local menus don't have many meaty options (it's mainly fish) though chuleta and steak can be found
- The hotel has 2 parking spots, and a small seasonal charge applies along the seafront. Beware the steep steps leading back up the hill
- The one-way system in town can be confusing; follow directions to the hotel explicitly or you may get lost
- Expect some noise to rise from the narrow street at the front of the hotel, plus early church bells
Best time to go
Summer is hot and lovely; if the sun shines at weekends, the roads and beaches get busy with locals. If you’re flexible with your dates, come in the week and avoid the crowds. Spring is perhaps the nicest time to visit - sunny days and less chance of rain. Autumn and winter are wetter but not cold: a typical autumn day will be 25 degrees with a slight breeze – great for surfing. During the first week of August the town is busy and visitors can enjoy the annual rock concert.
Our top tips
Take a day off from the beach and head inland to discover the Basque Country. Big hills and forested valleys wait. It’s a real surprise - you could be in the Alps. The hills and valleys run west for hundreds of miles, pushing inland about 50 miles deep. They hold an interesting story. Thirty thousand years ago Cro-Magnon spread along this coast, hiding himself away in the valleys. The tough landscape meant people stayed put and didn’t intermarry with passing tribes because no tribes passed by. As a result of this isolation Basque DNA is closer to Cro-Magnon DNA than almost any other group on the planet (the Lapps and Papua New Guineans share this heritage). Cro-Magnon Man was a fine artist and in the hills you’ll find lots of rock art. These days it’s closed to visitors in order to preserve it. However, head south 10km to Zestoa and you’ll find Ekainberri, where they have built a replica of the cave and copied the original art from the Magdalenian period onto its walls. It’s a great way to drop into the history of this mighty land.