Son Viscos
Valldemossa, Soller & Mountains, Spain
Reviewed by
Lyndon Ashmore
On an island awash with pomp, Son Viscos is refreshingly honest, but no less chic for it. Just a 5-minute jasmine-scented drive from the terracotta hues of Valldemossa, and bang in the middle of the dramatic Tramuntana mountains, the house (a former 18th-century inn) sits above idyllic grass terraces cleaved from the valley. Take a cold beer to the sunloungers and refresh with a paddle in the ancient water channels or outdoor showers. It won’t be long before the views entice you to explore the mountains and surrounding villages.
Up at the house, the honeyed façade is unassuming but the gnarled wooden doors conceal an ode to great design and impeccable hospitality. Six bedrooms capture a near monastic serenity, then bright prints and woven rugs lift the reclaimed wooden furniture with a simplicity that is both elegant and cosy. On departure, a fellow guest reveals he had already booked in for the end of the year, at the same time as another arrives on a return visit. It must be something in the water, because after a paddle in the stream tumbling down the terraces, we vow to return, too.
Up at the house, the honeyed façade is unassuming but the gnarled wooden doors conceal an ode to great design and impeccable hospitality. Six bedrooms capture a near monastic serenity, then bright prints and woven rugs lift the reclaimed wooden furniture with a simplicity that is both elegant and cosy. On departure, a fellow guest reveals he had already booked in for the end of the year, at the same time as another arrives on a return visit. It must be something in the water, because after a paddle in the stream tumbling down the terraces, we vow to return, too.
Highs
- A wonderful spot for enjoying the Tramuntana mountains, with awesome views and enchanting gardens
- Spacious and beautifully furnished rooms; not your typical B&B and well priced for what you get
- A veritable feast at breakfast and numerous pretty spots to enjoy it in
- Friendly managers Michael and Isabel make a stay supremely relaxing
- Great hiking and biking nearby, and easy day trips to Soller, Deia and Palma
Lows
- Valldemossa's restaurants are a drive away (or a 10-15 minute walk, which you probably won't fancy in the dark)
- No kids under 12; this is a romantic retreat
- The house is sandwiched in-between 2 roads and you need to cross over one to reach the gardens
- The small freshwater pool is quite deep and chilly - think dips rather than lengths
- Some sound travels through floors between rooms
Best time to go
Mallorca is a great destination at any time of year. Most people visit between April and September. Spring and autumn are ideal for walking or cycling as it's not too hot. July and August are the hottest and driest months. Rain is most likely between October and March, when everything becomes greener. Winter is beautiful at Son Viscos when the fires are lit and the crowds disappear.
Our top tips
Chopin stayed in Valldemossa with lover George Sand over the winter of 1838. The Palacio del Rey Sancho, next to Real Cartuja de Valldemossa in the main square, hosts daily performances of his music in season.