The Old Courtyard Hotel
Fort Cochin, Cochin & the Backwaters, India
Reviewed by
Yasmin Boland
This atmospheric heritage hotel has a cooling courtyard pool as its hub, with chairs dotted around to take respite in the shade. It is both elegant and old (over 200 years to be precise), having been built by the Portuguese when Cochin was their window to the spice trade, and features on many guided tours as a result.
Follow the grand wooden staircase to the guest rooms – all 9 vary in size and price but are charmingly decorated with air-conditioning and solar power. There are shutters and mosquito nets, polished antiques and surprisingly good showers. The location is terrific: step outside and you have spice shops, Chinese fishing nets, a Dutch palace and India’s oldest church on your doorstep. There are all manner of eateries, cafes, bars and shops offering takeaway snacks just a stroll away. Ayurvedic treatments are only a short walk away and there's a pool in the enclosed courtyard to cool off in. The ideal base for history buffs and those looking for historic style, peace and Keralan culture amidst the bustle of Fort Kochi.
Follow the grand wooden staircase to the guest rooms – all 9 vary in size and price but are charmingly decorated with air-conditioning and solar power. There are shutters and mosquito nets, polished antiques and surprisingly good showers. The location is terrific: step outside and you have spice shops, Chinese fishing nets, a Dutch palace and India’s oldest church on your doorstep. There are all manner of eateries, cafes, bars and shops offering takeaway snacks just a stroll away. Ayurvedic treatments are only a short walk away and there's a pool in the enclosed courtyard to cool off in. The ideal base for history buffs and those looking for historic style, peace and Keralan culture amidst the bustle of Fort Kochi.
Highs
- A charming 200-year-old building full of original decorative details, antiques and artwork
- Within ambling distance of Fort Kochi’s deservedly-famous Chinese fishing nets and other attractions
- Great value rates
- Staff were wonderful, caring and kind during our last visit
- Atmosphere is provided by sparrows fluttering and cheeping through the eaves
Lows
- No breakfast, room service, restaurant or alcohol licence, but there are plenty of eateries within walking distance
- Not for lovers of contemporary minimalism: the wooden floors creak, the steep stairs sway (gently) as you climb, this is a heritage property
- Towards the end of the season the nets, curtains, towels and walls start to look tired, but this is reflected in the prices
- Rooms are simple, so it's definitely worth booking a higher room category if you can
Best time to go
November to March is the peak time for visitors: the weather is dry rather than humid and not too hot. The much quieter monsoon season (December to February) is a good time for taking an Ayurvedic treatment course nearby, as you’re supposed to rest up between appointments anyway. October and April could offer the best of both worlds, if you’re lucky.
Our top tips
Be sure to catch the sun setting through the shapes of the famous Chinese fishing nets on the nearby northern shores - it’s a magical sight.