The small fishing village of Oualidia and its tidal lagoon, home to Morocco’s best oyster beds and some of its most diverse birdlife, remains one of the country’s best-kept secrets. In recent years it has begun to attract visitors during summer but for the rest of the year you could find no more beautiful nor peaceful a place to commune with the ocean.
James von Leyden was smitten by the place’s rare beauty and, on impulse, bought what must be the best positioned house in the village, on a high bluff looking out across the lagoon. He has given the house and its clutch of bedrooms a new lease of life thanks to a masterful refurbishment which placed the accent on stylish simplicity, solid comfort and the celebration of those exquisite lagoon views. To sit in La Diouana’s cosy sitting room, perhaps listening to one of James’ many CDs with a fire burning in the hearth, watching the fishing boats returning with their catch, is simply inspirational and is the reason, perhaps, why guests (and families in particular) return year after year to this unforgettable house.
Highs
- The views out through the huge French windows to the lagoon, sea and sky, simply couldn’t be bettered
- The staff, including housekeeper Abdillah and his wife Fatima, just couldn’t be kinder. Whatever you want to do, they can arrange it
- Superb for kids of all ages
- Beautiful outdoor pool overlooking the lagoon, which has a built-in paddling pool for little 'uns
- Oualidia has some of the best fish restaurants in Morocco. And its oysters, which come straight from the lagoon, are legendary
Lows
- Oualidia is a fair way from both Casablanca and Marrakech so to get here you really need your own transport. But transfers can be arranged if you prefer not to drive
- In recent years there’s been some new development around the southern end of the lagoon. But you see none of it from La Diouana
- The house’s Moroccan staff speak little English so you'll need to brush up on your French - or resort to gesticulating
- Two baby cots available on request
- Car seat available for baby and for child
- High chair
- Children's backpack (to carry a toddler in)
- Baby bedding
- Potty
Some equipment may need to be requested in advance
Non-English-speaking babysitting available by arrangement, see [i!#rates!Rates]
Baby monitor available
It's self-catering property. The cook, Fatima, can stay on after breakfast to prepare lunch and dinner on request and can also create special kids meals. The kitchen is equipped with a blender and microwave
- Paddling pool built in next to main pool, its depth is 40cm
- Outdoor playground
- All-weather ping pong table in the garden
- Chameleons, tortoises and chickens in the garden
- Zipwire
- Free DVD library with around 100 titles
- Plenty of toys plus board games to suit ages 0-12 including backgammon and Scrabble
- Farm animals nearby
- Swim, kayak or take a pedalo for a spin
- Arrange surfing lessons for children aged 8 and above
- Fly kites, play tennis or birdwatch on the beach
- Take the boat and explore the lagoon and pirate caves
- Beach Villa
- 5 bedrooms
- Villa with cook; restaurants nearby
- All ages welcome
- Open all year
- Outdoor Pool
- Spa Treatments
- Beach Nearby
- Babysitting
- Creche / Kids Club
- Car not necessary
- Parking
- Pet Friendly
- Disabled Access
- Restaurants Nearby
- WiFi
- Air Conditioning
- Guest Lounge
- Terrace
- Garden
- Gym
- Daily Maid Service
- Towels & Bedlinen
Rooms
There are three guest bedrooms in the main house, a fourth in the Garden Suite to one side of the palm-lined drive leading up to La Diouana’s main entrance, a fifth in the cosy Treetop Suite overlooking the garden, and finally the one-bedroom Penthouse above the villa with sweeping sea views.
Of the three bedrooms in the villa, the master bedroom steals the show with views of the lagoon and an enormous tadlakt bathtub. The other two rooms look out to the garden. One is a twin, the other a double with a second mezzanine bed reached via a steep ladder: kids would love it. Décor is simple and subdued, dominated by white walls and linens, then lifted by traditional textiles, Moroccan artwork and photography.
The Garden Suite is an independent annex just 30 metres from the house, with its own sitting area and roof terrace. There is plenty of wardrobe space, as in all of the bedrooms, and the same attractive use of natural-coloured tadlakt in its shower room.
The Treetop Suite is a self-contained apartment with separate entrance, kingsize bed, bath, tadlakt floors and terrace overlooking the garden. The Penthouse is the crown perched atop the main villa; the kingsize bed and vast bathtub look out to the lagoon, and there's a private terrace perfect for a quiet morning coffee.
The villa must be booked as standard, but you can choose any combo of rooms to add on to suit your party.
Features include:
- Central heating
- Cots available
- DVD player
- Fireplace
- Safe box
- Washing machine
Eating
Even though there are a couple of excellent restaurants in Oualidia you may feel loathe not to eat all meals at La Diouana. There’s a cosy dining area at one end of the sitting room from where you look out to the lagoon and a couple of tables in the garden with those same amazing views.
Hanane, the maid, can prepare a delicious breakfast of pancakes and baguettes, squeezing oranges and making potfuls of freshly ground coffee whose aroma greets you when you emerge from your room.
Abdillah’s wife Fátima, who lives a few houses away, can prepare you a fabulous three course lunch or dinner. Let her know if you’d like her to shop for you or head down to the lagoon-side fish market, make your own choice from the best of the catch, then let her prepare you an amazing tagine. Her other specialities include harira, couscous and pastilla as well as meat and seafood: this is a unique opportunity to eat the best Moroccan food for little more than the cost of the ingredients. Fatima can also prepare special meals for children – hamburgers, chicken and chips, salads.
And be sure to let Abdillah organise a boat trip to the headland on the far side of the lagoon with an included lunch of oysters, sea urchins and grilled fish, all straight from the sea. We did just that and had one of the most memorable meals of our Moroccan trip.
A small selection of Moroccan wines, and beer, are available at the house.
Features include:
- Breakfast
- Dinner by arrangement
- Fridge
- Full kitchen
- In-house cook
- Kids' meals
- Lunch by arrangement
- Oven
- Restaurants nearby
Activities
- Oualidia has one main street with shops, fruit market and cafes; a long winding road leads to the lagoon with seafood restaurants. Visit its colourful Saturday market, teeming with farmers and donkeys from outlying villages bartering over pots and pans, sacks of flour and beans, vats of olives and bowls of spices
- Follow a narrow path down through the eucalyptus forest to a sheltered, sandy beach which is ideal for kids learning to swim and great for flying kites; follow the beach up to grottos and caves, climb the hills in spring and find them covered in wild flowers
- Surfing, wind-surfing and other water sports are available in the summer months. The shallow lagoon and rollers of the Atlantic make Oualidia a great place to learn
- Watch birds (best in spring and autumn) from La Diouana’s terrace or from a boat on the lagoon. This is one of Morocco’s top ornithological destinations - expect oyster catchers, curlews, dunlins, and flamingos (in early summer) to pass by
- Walk north along the beach past the oyster beds, via an extraordinary Marabout’s tomb, to the salt flats or walk south for miles and miles along a deserted stretch of beach
- Back at the villa, allow yourself to be pampered with a massage at the onsite wellness studio
- Take a day trip south to visit the ceramic workshops at Safi; Cap Bedouzza, between Safi and Oualidia, is a windswept promontory with a curious light-house and miles of sandy beach
- Further afield, 3 hours to the south, is the blue and white port of Essaouira, a fabulous excursion
- Or head an hour north to El Jadida and visit the crumbling ramparts, churches and rambling souk of its old cité portuguaise
- Outside El Jadida is the Royal Golf Sofitel, one of the best golf courses in Morocco
- Another few kilometres takes you to Azemmour, an old Portuguese colony with an ancient medina seldom visited by tourists
Activities on site or nearby include:
- Birdwatching
- Boat trips
- Fishing
- Golf
- Hiking
- Surfing
- Swimming
- Windsurfing
Best Time to go
July and August are peak season - the village fills up with marrakchi families, and night clubs and camping sites go full tilt, so if you're looking for a peaceful retreat try and avoid these 2 months. On the other hand, the atmosphere is friendly and colourful, and sociable families can make many friends. At any other time of year the village is much more of a "secret gem", especially in the spring when wildflowers cover the hillsides leading down to the lagoon and when it’s warm enough to swim.
Our Top Tips
Fish for your supper in the lagoon from La Diouana’s small boat. It can be hired for a modest sum and tackle, and supervision if required, are included.
Location
La Diouana is outside the charming village of Oualidia, on the Atlantic coast of Morocco, equidistant between Casablanca and Essaouira. It's 180km from the nearest airport, but the beauty and isolation of the area make it well worth the drive.
By Air:
Casablanca Mohammed V (180km). Marrakech Menara (200km). Essaouira (180km). All airports served by several airlines. Click on the link below for a list.
The owners recommend flying to Marrakech and then hiring a car or taking a taxi to Oualidia. They can arrange transfers from Marrakech, Casablanca or Essaouira.
By Car
Hiring a car will give you additional flexibility for day trips - see our car rental recommendations. It's a 3-hour drive from Marrakech; 2.5 from Casablanca.
Abdillah, the house guardian, will meet you when you arrive and hand over keys. He lives two minutes away and will cheerfully help with any questions or problems.
Detailed directions will be sent to you once you book through i-escape.
More on getting to Morocco and getting around.
Airports:
- Casablanca Mohammed V 180.0 km CMN
- Essaouira 180.0 km ESU
Other:
- Beach 0.1 km
- Shops 0.2 km
- Restaurant 0.5 km
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