Reviewed by
Michael Cullen
The Gulf of Mirabello is one of the most picturesque stretches of coast on northern Crete, and one of the busiest. Elounda is hotel central, bustling with 5-star resorts and all manner of watersports within its enclosed lagoon. But just offshore, connected to the town by a causeway and an old stone bridge, is a little island which feels a world away. In Minoan times, this was a wealthy port: you can still see traces of the stonework beneath the surface of the clear blue sea. Now there's hardly any traffic at all: just 3 ruined windmills and an open-air taverna where, over breakfast and freshly brewed coffee, you can watch fishing boats chug home through the canal.
On this islet there is just one proper building - and there probably won't ever be more, given the strict planning laws that are now in place. It's a cluster of cubist Greek-style apartments: whitewashed and boxy, with paved patios, fragrant gardens, and olive and carob trees for shade. Inside each, the decor is simple and rustic. Not only is the resort family-friendly, it’s also family-run: you're warmly welcomed by artistic Leda and her parents Kiki and Ilias, who run the place with a laid-back, English-speaking ease. This spot makes a delightful, friendly base for an undemanding family or couple wanting to relax by the sea and explore some of eastern Crete, without spending the kind of money required by other Elounda hotels.
On this islet there is just one proper building - and there probably won't ever be more, given the strict planning laws that are now in place. It's a cluster of cubist Greek-style apartments: whitewashed and boxy, with paved patios, fragrant gardens, and olive and carob trees for shade. Inside each, the decor is simple and rustic. Not only is the resort family-friendly, it’s also family-run: you're warmly welcomed by artistic Leda and her parents Kiki and Ilias, who run the place with a laid-back, English-speaking ease. This spot makes a delightful, friendly base for an undemanding family or couple wanting to relax by the sea and explore some of eastern Crete, without spending the kind of money required by other Elounda hotels.
Highs
- Fantastic swimming and snorkelling on your doorstep, and a sandy beach nearby with crystal clear waters
- Great views from your breezy balcony over the sparkling sea
- You share the island with just a handful of other guests, yet nearby Elounda offers bars, shops and boat trips to Spinalonga island
- Excellent value for money
Lows
- Children must be 6 years old and over
- You'll need to head out for meals (the small on-site café is liable to be closed)
- You can easily explore the surrounding area on foot, but for anything further afield you'll need a car
- Some local beaches get crowded in summer - but Leda can point you in the direction of hidden gems
Best time to go
The best time to visit Crete is between April - October, which is also when the hotel is open; though bear in mind that July-August can be very hot and very crowded. We went in early October and loved it - the perfect window between busy-ness and shutting down, with warm seas to boot.
Our top tips
Bring your own mask and snorkel, and a copy of Victoria Hislop's "The Island". This best-selling novel tells of a family whose life on and around Spinalonga is brought to colourful, and often tragic, life. Though somewhat harrowing, like all Greek tragedies, it leaves you feeling affirmed.