Reviewed by
Jane Foster
In the hillside village of Koutouloufari, with views down to Crete’s busy north coast, Villa Ippocampi makes a surprisingly blissful retreat for a relaxed summer holiday or an off-season escape a deux. The owners are a Greek-Dutch couple: Nikos, who originates from the village, and his Dutch wife Lydia who has lived on the island since 1984.
Laid-back and restful, the white Cycladic-style building offers 13 simple but stylish suites of various sizes, each with a kitchenette. Set in a walled garden planted with lavender, bougainvillea, geraniums and a towering palm tree, it gives onto a lovely pool and poolside café serving coffee, juices and cocktails till sunset, after which peace reigns. Head out to explore the local villages, packed with small friendly tavernas and cafes, and the beaches within reach.
Laid-back and restful, the white Cycladic-style building offers 13 simple but stylish suites of various sizes, each with a kitchenette. Set in a walled garden planted with lavender, bougainvillea, geraniums and a towering palm tree, it gives onto a lovely pool and poolside café serving coffee, juices and cocktails till sunset, after which peace reigns. Head out to explore the local villages, packed with small friendly tavernas and cafes, and the beaches within reach.
Highs
- Really personal service and friendly welcoming atmosphere – many guests are return visitors
- We loved the simple but attractive blue-white décor, pepped up with pink flowers, ceramic jars and flickering lanterns
- Very peaceful and private, thanks to the hedges and walled gardens, plus a lovely pool
- Lying between the sea and mountains, low-key Koutouloufari offers a handful of authentic eateries and informal cafes frequented by locals
- Excellent proximity to local shops and tavernas, as well as three lovely villages
Lows
- No restaurant – the poolside cafe only serves drinks, so unless you're self-catering, for all meals you’ll need walk to the nearby villages
- The commercialised resorts of Hersonissos, Malia and Stalida are only 5km away, but easily avoided
- The terraces of the ground-floor suites at the front look straight onto the pool area, so lack privacy
- No kids under 12 means maximum tranquillity for couples
- On our last visit, we noticed noise from passing mopeds
Best time to go
To avoid the crowds, try to visit in shoulder season (May-June or September-October) when the days are sunny but not too hot (ideal for hiking) and the sea still warm enough to swim. During high-season (July-August), the island swarms with visitors, while in low season (November-April) most tourist facilities close down completely. The hotel is closed from November-mid April every year.
Our top tips
Take The Island by Victoria Hislop with you. An award-winning novel based on the leper colony past of nearby Spinalonga, it sets the scene for your surroundings and is an excellent read. Also, let the family recommend nearby beaches, restaurants and places of interest.