Much of eastern Crete has suffered from modern development, but there’s one little area – like Asterix’ village in those comic books – which has resisted the invasion of mass tourism. It’s a pine- and olive-studded valley surrounded by rocky peaks, just inland from Makriyialos beach. At the end of this is a small hamlet of old stone houses, tastefully restored by local man Vangelis Mavrakis, and rented by the night or week to couples and families seeking the ‘real Crete’. They are simply and rustically furnished, with a sitting-dining room, kitchen and 1 bedroom.
A short drive away are the beaches and harbour town of Makriyialos, the gorges of Pefki and Perivolakia, the palm-shaded beach of Vai, and the Minoan palace of Zakros. All in all, it’s a kind of coastal equivalent of Milia mountain hamlet in western Crete, along with which it would make an excellent 2-centre introduction to this fascinating and varied island. If only there were more places like these in Greece!
Highs
- We loved the wonderful pool in the heart of the hamlet
- Exceptionally friendly owners and staff
- A sandy, family-friendly beach with tavernas 15 mins' walk down through olive groves
- The thick walls keep the interiors blissfully cool even in the height of summer (and there's A/C, too)
- The larger cottages (which come with sofabeds) are ideal for families
Lows
- The cottages are simply (but tastefully) furnished
- Bathrooms are fairly basic
- You have to walk (15 minutes) or drive to dinner; or, of course, cook it in your kitchen
- Some of the coastline nearby is scarred by polytunnels and drab development
Best time to go
The best times, in terms of pleasant climate and avoiding the crowds, are either April - May, when the weather is pleasantly warm and the hillsides have some colour (but the sea is cold); or mid-September - October, when the sea is warmer but the days shorter. Try and avoid July and August if you can – quite busy and very hot. It is closed from November to March (there is no central heating).
Our top tips
Don't miss the lovely 2-3 hour hike through the pine-shaded gorge above the hotel: ask Vangelis for a sketch map. Ideally, get a lift up to Pefki village (marked as Ayios Stefanos on google), so you can walk downhill and end with a swim in the pool. In summer, start early; in spring or autumn, leave around 1pm for a wonderful outdoor lunch at Piperia in Pefki, before starting the hike back down.
- Boutique Cottages
- 13 cottages for 2-4
- Self catering (restaurants nearby)
- All ages welcome
- Open all year
- Outdoor Pool
- Spa Treatments
- Beach Nearby
- Pet Friendly
- Disabled Access
- Car recommended
- Parking
- Restaurants Nearby
- WiFi
- Air Conditioning
- Guest Lounge
- Terrace
- Garden
- Gym
- Daily Maid Service
- Towels & Bedlinen
Rooms
The 13 tiny stone houses ooze rustic charm. Unlock your stable door with the massive iron key and you’ll find yourself in a cosy sitting-dining room built against the rockface. They are simply but brightly furnished, with white-washed walls, beamed ceilings and mauve-striped bedspreads (the inbuilt sofas double up as extra beds). Off this lies a small kitchen, a bedroom and a simple bathroom (curtained shower, hairdryer). It may not be the height of luxury, but it is clean, well-kept, tranquil and extremely cosy. And the beautifully tended gardens around add a splash of colour and softness to the views.
The studios are the smallest, with a single open-plan space incorporating bedroom, sitting area and kitchen corner.
The larger cottages have a double bedroom and a separate kitchen / sitting room, with either one or two inbuilt sofas which can double up as extra beds.
All rooms have air-conditioning (cold or hot air), solar- and immersion-heated hot water, mozzie screens on the windows (which weren’t totally effective during our visit), a phone, an iron, nice toiletries and a hairdryer. Each house also has its own private terrace.
There is sometimes evidence of damp, so bring a warm jumper if visiting in April or October, and check there are spare blankets. Be aware these are not full service rooms - there is cleaning and linen changing every few days but guests are expected to dispose of garbage in the bins provided; it will not be collected daily.
Features include:
- Hairdryer
- Iron
- Mosquito net
- WiFi
Eating
The houses are self-catering, with small, simply-equipped kitchens and a dining area. There’s a little electric cooker (2 rings, mini-oven and grill), a fridge (with ice tray – very important!), a kettle, toaster, basic tools (saucepans, corkscrew, grater, lemon-squeezer, knives) and enough cutlery and crockery for 2-4, depending on the house. There’s a table inside, but chances are you’ll be eating outside on the private terrace – each house has one, but some are prettier than others.
The basics are provided (sachets of coffee, tea and sugar, milk and bottled water), plus a carafe of local wine. Let the owners know if you're celebrating a special occasion, and you'll get some extra goodies. The kitchens are certainly adequate for a breakfast of fresh yoghurt and delicious thyme honey (bought from the cleaning lady!); or farm-fresh eggs (bought from reception) fried on toast; or a crunchy Greek salad and feta for lunch; or even a simple pasta dish for supper (there’s a cookery book if you need inspiration).
For anything more complex you’ll have to drive 1km to the coast (or walk), which offers a range of tavernas, restaurants and cafés in and around Makriyialos. Olympio café serves good snacks and pizzas; or check out the Italian restaurant in neighbouring Analipsi.
For delicious, unfancy home cooking we recommend Kaliatzina Taverna, slightly further afield in Koutsouras village (ask Vangelis to draw you a sketch map). Here, on a tamarisk-shaded courtyard overlooking the sea, 2 sisters (plus the obligatory yiayia) serve you whatever they’ve cooked that afternoon – stuffed tomatoes and peppers, arni avgolemono (juicy baked lamb in and egg and lemon sauce), beef stifado (stewed with onions), all washed down with a small carafe of local wine.
For a bizarre dinner experience, drive to Kalo Nero (20 minutes east) and you can eat at the foot of an illuminated cave, the ‘Dragon’s Cave’.
Features include:
- Full kitchen
- Kids' meals
- Restaurants nearby
Activities
- Makriyialos is the prettiest town on this stretch of coast, with a lovely fishing harbour, restored waterfront houses, traces of Minoan and Roman settlements and a wide choice of bars and tavernas
- Swim from its sandy beach, or for a change drive west to Achlia or Koutsounari beaches
- Heading east, visit the forbidding monastery of Kapsa (9km away) and the dramatic Pervolakia gorge, then stop for a swim at the shingly cove of Kalo Nero near Langada
- Take a boat trip from Ierapetra to the beautiful island of Chrysi
- Climb the panoramic 1500-metre summit of Afendis Estravromenos; start from the village of Orino, 30 mins drive away
- Save energy for one longer day trip: eastwards to the atmospheric ruins of Zakros Minoan palace, at the estuary of the oleander-lined 'Valley of the Dead'; combine it with a swim at Xerokambos or, further afield, the palm-beach of Vaï
Activities on site or nearby include:
- Birdwatching
- Hiking
- Snorkelling
- Swimming
Kids
Children of all ages are welcome and this is a great place for them, with beaches nearby and wild nature on your doorstep.
Best for:
Children (4-12 years)
Family friendly accommodation:
The larger cottages can sleep 4, with one double bedroom and two sofabeds in the sitting room. Cottage 6 has 2 bathrooms along with both double and single sofabeds. Cottages 7 and 9 work well for a smaller family, with a sofabed in the living/kitchen area. Cots are available in Cottages 1, 10 and 11.
Cots Available, Extra Beds Available, Family Rooms
Baby equipment:
- 2 cots
- High chair
Remember baby and child equipment may be limited or need pre-booking
Children's meals:
The basic self-catering cottages have everything you need for families meals (but no microwave or blender). Tavernas, restaurants and takeaways are a short amble away
Kids Activities on site:
- Swimming pool
Kids Activities nearby:
- Playground
- Watersports and more in Makriyialos
- Lots of lovely beaches nearby
Families Should Know:
The pool isn't fenced and there are steps around that could be tricky for toddlers. You can buy everything you need in the village (1km walk), including nappies, beach toys and baby food. A doctor can be called out to the villas if necessary
Distances:
- Airport: 2 hours
- Hospital: 30 minutes
For more family-friendly places, see our Kids Collection
Location
The cottages are 1km inland from Makriyialos at the end of a small track, in a secluded valley by Crete's southeast coast.
By Air
The airstrip at Sitia has been upgraded to accept international flights in summer, but you will more likely fly to Heraklion (or Iraklion), 2 hours (130km) away.
By Boat
There are daily overnight ferries from Piraeus (Athens) to Heraklion, and less frequent, slower sailings from Piraeus to Sitia.
From Heraklion Airport/ Port
It's a 2-hour (130km) drive via Agios Nikolaos and Ierapetra. If you choose not to hire a car you can catch a taxi from Heraklion - note it's best to agree a price before accepting the ride - or catch a bus to Aghios Nikolaos or Ierapetra and a taxi from there.
By Car
Hiring a car will allow you to explore the area better - see our car rental recommendations.
Detailed directions to the houses will follow when you confirm a booking through our site.
More on getting to Greece and getting around.
Airports:
- Heraklion, Nikos Kazantzakis 130.0 km HER
Other:
- Beach 1.0 km
- Shops 2.0 km
- Restaurant 2.0 km
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