Reviewed by
Michael Cullen
Much of eastern Crete has suffered from modern development, but there’s one little area – like Asterix’ village in those comic books – which has resisted the invasion of mass tourism. It’s a pine- and olive-studded valley surrounded by rocky peaks, just inland from Makriyialos beach. At the end of this is a small hamlet of old stone houses, tastefully restored by local man Vangelis Mavrakis, and rented by the night or week to couples and families seeking the ‘real Crete’. They are simply and rustically furnished, with a sitting-dining room, kitchen and 1 bedroom.
A short drive away are the beaches and harbour town of Makriyialos, the gorges of Pefki and Perivolakia, the palm-shaded beach of Vai, and the Minoan palace of Zakros. All in all, it’s a kind of coastal equivalent of Milia mountain hamlet in western Crete, along with which it would make an excellent 2-centre introduction to this fascinating and varied island. If only there were more places like these in Greece!
A short drive away are the beaches and harbour town of Makriyialos, the gorges of Pefki and Perivolakia, the palm-shaded beach of Vai, and the Minoan palace of Zakros. All in all, it’s a kind of coastal equivalent of Milia mountain hamlet in western Crete, along with which it would make an excellent 2-centre introduction to this fascinating and varied island. If only there were more places like these in Greece!
Highs
- We loved the wonderful pool in the heart of the hamlet
- Exceptionally friendly owners and staff
- A sandy, family-friendly beach with tavernas 15 mins' walk down through olive groves
- The thick walls keep the interiors blissfully cool even in the height of summer (and there's A/C, too)
- The larger cottages (which come with sofabeds) are ideal for families
Lows
- The cottages are simply (but tastefully) furnished
- Bathrooms are fairly basic
- You have to walk (15 minutes) or drive to dinner; or, of course, cook it in your kitchen
- Some of the coastline nearby is scarred by polytunnels and drab development
Best time to go
The best times, in terms of pleasant climate and avoiding the crowds, are either April - May, when the weather is pleasantly warm and the hillsides have some colour (but the sea is cold); or mid-September - October, when the sea is warmer but the days shorter. Try and avoid July and August if you can – quite busy and very hot. It is closed from November to March (there is no central heating).
Our top tips
Don't miss the lovely 2-3 hour hike through the pine-shaded gorge above the hotel: ask Vangelis for a sketch map. Ideally, get a lift up to Pefki village (marked as Ayios Stefanos on google), so you can walk downhill and end with a swim in the pool. In summer, start early; in spring or autumn, leave around 1pm for a wonderful outdoor lunch at Piperia in Pefki, before starting the hike back down.