Iriarte Jauregia
Bidania, The Basque Country, Spain
Reviewed by
Tom Bell
The landscapes of the Basque Country come as a surprise - you could almost be in an Alpine valley here. Big hills soar, lush fields sparkle, thick forests roam across the land. The terrace at this lovely hotel is the best seat in the small town of Bidania, a 3-mile sweep across the valley. Old boys make hay in the fields below, cows graze, tractors rumble and eagles soar in the sky. There is deep peace here for those who seek it.
As for the hotel, it’s a 300-year-old mansion, strategically positioned on the side of the hill so the original owner could watch his men at work in the valley below. A beautiful renovation has kept all the lovely old bits while adding contemporary flair. You climb the hill from town, nip across the greenest lawn, then step into a vast hall. To the left is a smart bar and an attractive sitting room; to the right is a superb restaurant with doors onto a dining terrace. Upstairs, 19 super-comfy rooms come with excellent beds, fancy bathrooms and a warm, uncluttered style. If you are looking for good food and stylish interiors in blissful country, you’ll find it here.
As for the hotel, it’s a 300-year-old mansion, strategically positioned on the side of the hill so the original owner could watch his men at work in the valley below. A beautiful renovation has kept all the lovely old bits while adding contemporary flair. You climb the hill from town, nip across the greenest lawn, then step into a vast hall. To the left is a smart bar and an attractive sitting room; to the right is a superb restaurant with doors onto a dining terrace. Upstairs, 19 super-comfy rooms come with excellent beds, fancy bathrooms and a warm, uncluttered style. If you are looking for good food and stylish interiors in blissful country, you’ll find it here.
Highs
- A perfect retreat for romance and R&R
- Walking in the surrounding countryside, then doing very little in the hotel itself
- Owner Iban and his staff, who go out of their way to look after you
- Fantastic food in the restaurant: perhaps Iberian pork loin or fried cod with spinach
- San Sebastián - a great little city on the beach - is just 25km away
Lows
- You’ll need a car to get here; this is a fairly remote location
- There’s no swimming pool, but you can nip up to the beaches on the coast
- The weather in the mountains is unpredictable - you may get a day of rain
- The restaurant's opening hours are seasonal, but there's a "Quick and easy" menu available daily, and simple restaurants in town
Best time to go
Summers are lovely, though the roads get busy in July and August. You’re up in the hills so temperatures are cooler, a blessing in peak season. A fair bit of rain falls from November to March, but winters are mild.
The fiesta of San Bartolome takes place in the town on 26 August. If you don’t want to join the party, better to come another day.
There are various festivals throughout the year in Tolosa, San Sebastian and nearby villages, so you might want to coincide your visit with one of these. Best known are the Film Festival (September) and Jazz Festival (July) in San Sebastian.
The fiesta of San Bartolome takes place in the town on 26 August. If you don’t want to join the party, better to come another day.
There are various festivals throughout the year in Tolosa, San Sebastian and nearby villages, so you might want to coincide your visit with one of these. Best known are the Film Festival (September) and Jazz Festival (July) in San Sebastian.
Our top tips
The east-west motorway between San Sebastián and Santander never gets that busy, so you won’t have any trouble getting about. However, roads between the motorway and the coast aren’t as obliging and tend to slow you down, especially west of Deba, so leave a little extra time if you want to visit the beaches.