Kanz Erremal
Merzouga, South & desert, Morocco
Reviewed by
Michael Cullen
Merzouga is the best place in Morocco to get a taste of the spectacular Sahara dunes. A newly-asphalted road leads right up to huge hills of golden sand; at their base, a string of hotels vies for your custom. We checked out a dozen, and chose Kanz Erremal - ‘desert treasure’ in Berber - for its superior service, comfy rooms and well-run excursions.
The kasbah is made of the ubiquitous mud-straw pisé which serve as bricks-and-mortar hereabouts. At its centre is an airy atrium, cooled by clay vases of dripping water, around which lie several sitting-dining alcoves. Upstairs are 14 simple but cosy bedrooms, most with views (and in some cases balconies) over those magnetic, photogenic dunes. The pool sits outside, enticing you to take a dip to cool off and overlook the dunes. It’s co-owned by 2 Spaniards, who make regular visits, and a dynamic Moroccan called Brahim, who oversees a handful of cheery local staff. They can arrange all manner of desert trips, including camel treks to an overnight oasis camp (a must), quad biking, sand boarding and tours in their Land Rover to mineral quarries, cave paintings and nomadic settlements.
The kasbah is made of the ubiquitous mud-straw pisé which serve as bricks-and-mortar hereabouts. At its centre is an airy atrium, cooled by clay vases of dripping water, around which lie several sitting-dining alcoves. Upstairs are 14 simple but cosy bedrooms, most with views (and in some cases balconies) over those magnetic, photogenic dunes. The pool sits outside, enticing you to take a dip to cool off and overlook the dunes. It’s co-owned by 2 Spaniards, who make regular visits, and a dynamic Moroccan called Brahim, who oversees a handful of cheery local staff. They can arrange all manner of desert trips, including camel treks to an overnight oasis camp (a must), quad biking, sand boarding and tours in their Land Rover to mineral quarries, cave paintings and nomadic settlements.
Highs
- The dunes of Erg Chebbi are right on your doorstep - walk 5 minutes and you can lose yourself (hopefully not literally) in a sea of wind-sculpted sandscapes
- Their overnight oasis camp experience is magical (an exclusive to Kanz Erremal guests) - you'll have the silent dunes and starry skies all to yourself
- The pool is a luxury in the middle of the desert; take a dip to cool off
- Superb breakfast of crispy crepes, flan, jams, yoghurts, even chocolate spread
- Excellent value for money
Lows
- It's remote (5 hours from Ouarzazate, 7 from Fez, 8 from Marrakech) but don't imagine you’re in splendid isolation - there’s another hotel right next door
- Recent feedback suggests the decor and furniture are starting to look and feel a bit tired
- Touts hang around trying to sell you trinkets and camel tours (best to prebook one)
- Dinners could be improved - though admittedly supplies are scarce round here
- Not much to do in the middle of the day except laze by the pool
Best time to go
Late autumn (Sept - Nov) and early spring (Feb - April) are best, with daytime temperatures in the 20's and low 30's celsius. You can also go in midwinter (Dec - Jan) if you don't mind the chilly nights (typically 5-10 celsius). Midsummer (June - Aug) is best avoided, as daytime temperatures climb to the high 30's.
Our top tips
Don’t miss Kanz Erremal’s overnight camel excursions to their remote private oasis camp. We loved it - an experience to savour, and well worth the money. Tips: wear sunscreen and a brimmed hat, take lots of water (two 1.5-litre bottles each) and drink regularly. Come at full moon when the skies are so bright you can hike - torch-free - up the eerie monochrome slopes.