Mazaraki Guesthouse
Sparta, Peloponnese, Greece
Reviewed by
Jane Foster
Overlooking the vast Laconian Plain, with the peaks of the Taygetus mountains rising into the horizon, Mazaraki Guesthouse lies in the pretty hamlet of Pikoulianika. Built into a hillside, it is surrounded by pine woods, cypresses, olive trees and fresh-water streams. Upon arrival, you head to the cafe, with its mis-matched furniture and a terrace lined with potted basil and geraniums. Welcoming staff and wafts of freshly-baked cakes create a breezy, informal atmosphere. Neighbouring stone buildings are home to 13 spacious suites with kitchens, and 1 double room, named after the natural world or modes of transport (Flowers, Bicycle, Sky) and decorated accordingly. There's also a small pool.
From the guesthouse, it's a 2km-walk down to medieval Mystras, an abandoned fortified town capped by a 13th-century hilltop castle. Flights of stone steps zig-zag between the ruins and half-a-dozen beautifully frescoed Byzantine churches and monasteries. The final resident left in 1952, and today Mystras is a wonderfully atmospheric site, one of our favourite spots in the Peloponnese.
From the guesthouse, it's a 2km-walk down to medieval Mystras, an abandoned fortified town capped by a 13th-century hilltop castle. Flights of stone steps zig-zag between the ruins and half-a-dozen beautifully frescoed Byzantine churches and monasteries. The final resident left in 1952, and today Mystras is a wonderfully atmospheric site, one of our favourite spots in the Peloponnese.
Highs
- A great option for those who want to explore inland Greece: stunning mountains, medieval ruins, slow food
- We loved the spacious, rustic-chic accommodation with private terraces (and the prices)
- Delicious and varied breakfasts included in the rates and delivered to your door
- Stunning views over verdant plains and up to snowy peaks
- Friendly staff, who know how to look after their guests
Lows
- Set in the hills, and approached up a twisty country road, it can be tricky to find; you'll need a car
- The pool is quite small, and visible from the road
- No village life as such - just a small shop and a couple of local restaurants
- The nearest ATM is in Sparta (9km), the nearest beach near Gythio (50km)
Best time to go
Spring or autumn are ideal - the weather is warm and sunny (perfect for hiking and cycling), and flights are generally cheaper. In peak season (Jul-Aug), most people head for the coast; however, due to altitude, surrounding woodland and fresh water springs, Pikoulianika is refreshingly cool on summer nights, making it a welcome escape from both the crowds and the heat. During winter, Mazaraki Guesthouse offers a cosy retreat, complete with log fires.
Our top tips
There's a breathtaking 2-hour hike up the limestone gorge from the pretty village of Parori (tavernas with fresh grilled trout), past the silent and inspiring cave-chapel of Langadiotissa and dramatic orange cliff walls, to the monastery of Faneromeni, where a lone English-speaking monk welcomes you with loukoumi and a tour of the frescoed chapel (generally open 9-2 and 5-7; wear long sleeves).