We were thrilled to unearth this gem. It has that elusive alchemy of a semi-private beach, contemporary styled suites and – unexpected bonus – truly outstanding Greek cuisine. If you think that’s a contradiction in terms, imagine still-warm chocolate-brown carob bread with homemade baba ganoush, baked sea bass stuffed with aromatic greens and served with a verbena sauce, or bitter chocolate soup with strawberry sorbet and blobs of mint sauce – washed down with superb Santorini wines, while waves lap at your flip-flops and the sun sinks into an inky sea. Life doesn't get much better.
The setting is magnificent. You look out over the placid waters of the Pagasitic Gulf, its horizon ringed by rugged lilac mountains. Take a swim before breakfast – flying fish skimmed the water in front of my nose – then wander into the pretty fishing village of Afissos, or explore Pelion's wooded hills by bike, horseback or miniature train. Service comes with a smile, and rates are reasonable. Each suite sleeps 2-4, thanks to a separate sitting room which makes it work well for families, though we think this would be perfect for couples without children who fancy an upmarket Greek beachside hideaway.
Highs
- The food really is an eye-opener: we thought it some of the best we've ever tasted in 20 years of visiting Greek hotels
- We also liked the chic homely suites, with their brushed concrete-effect walls, large abstract tableaux and heavy designer fabrics – though they may not be to everyone’s taste
- If you tire of the lovely sand-shingle beach on your doorstep, there are 2 more within 15 minutes' walk
- With only 7 suites (one of them added, presumably, after they chose the name), it feels delightfully exclusive
- Pelion makes a refreshing change from the barren Greek islands, with its cooler summers, dappled olive and beech woods, and picturesque stone villages
Lows
- You'll need to book early: the season is short, and Exi Kleidia (to use its Greek name) has a faithful following among the cognoscenti of Athens and Thessaloniki
- The near-constant soundtrack of chilled music irked me a bit, but it starts mid-morning, so you can wake to the sound of the waves at least
- You may never use your ensuite sitting room: the outdoor seating (both private and communal) is even nicer
- Some suites come with a fireplace or sunken jacuzzi, but these tend not to be operational
- It's a bit of a devil to reach (unless you can find a rare flight into Volos): expect 2.5 hours' drive from Thessaloniki, 4 from Athens
Best time to go
Six Keys is generally open from mid-April to the end of October, and we think the ideal months are May, June and September: pleasant temperatures (typically 22-30 Celsius) and no crowds. Generally, Pelion tends to be a few degrees cooler than the Greek islands and southern mainland, so July-August are bearable; but be aware that in August the beach in front of the hotel can get very busy.
Our top tips
Ioannis Baxevanis visits the hotel around three times a year so you may be lucky enough to meet him. Otherwise, you are in very capable hands with head chef Antoneta Konomi. If you head to the beach - guests get their own special area of beach loungers, providing some exclusivity on the coastline.
Location
Six Keys is situated on Kallifteri beach just outside the village of Afissos (Afysos) on the Pelion peninsula. It's 25km (30 mins' drive) south of the town of Volos, following the main coastal road. Pelion is on the east coast of mainland Greece.
By Air
Fly into Volos (Nea Anchialos, 50km), if you can find a suitable flight. Otherwise Thessaloniki and Athens are respectively 3 and 4 hours' drive away, and are much better connected.
By Car
You'll probably want a car, as it's 1km (15 mins' walk) outside the village of Afissos, and the rest of Pelion is worth exploring. If so, see our car rental recommendations. Otherwise, if you just fancy a lazy time (and fine food) on the beach, you could manage without one; 5 or 6 buses a day run between Afissos and Volos.
By Boat from Skiathos
It's possible to combine Pelion with Skiathos using boats and hydrofoils in and out of Volos (30-45 mins' drive from the hotel), or the summer caique connection into Katigiorgis (1 hour's drive away). Skiathos has an airport with charter flights from the UK and a few other countries, as well as domestic flights from Athens.
Detailed directions will be sent to you when you book through i-escape.com.
More on getting to Greece and getting around.
Airports:
- Volos (Nea Anchialos) 50.0 km VOL
- Thessaloniki (Macedonia) 250.0 km SKG
Other:
- Beach 0.0 km
- Shops 1.0 km
- Restaurant 1.0 km
Our guests' ratings...
Based on 11 independent reviews from i-escape guests
The hotel is in a lovely location literally on the beach. Each room has designated sunbeds. A morning swim before breakfast was a real treat.
The bed was extremely comfortable and a very generous space to sit inside and out. The bathroom could have been a little bigger. We’d have liked tea coffee making facilities in our rooms so we cold laze in the morning. There was no variety on specials during our stay. Or fish of the day.
Unfortunately there were high winds which made the beach unusable on the last day of our stay. Service wise, the beach staff were great. I found the restaurant staff made the dining experience a little formal for a beach hotel. Over worried about rules rather than service. Meals felt a little rushed and orders missed. The playlist was truly awful in our opinion. I enjoyed a lovely massage in the garden area. Very relaxing. We flew into Skiathos, ferried and taxied to the hotel. All smooth. It would have been nice to have had snorkeling or other watersports equipment available to hire. We didn’t have a car, but the walk into Afissos was easy, there were plenty of eating options there and a large beach area. The town is a little down at heal, but the meals were very reasonably priced. All very good. We booked over a weekend. Sent enquiry and got a fast reply.
Completely charming seaside lodge with friendly and attentive staff. The restaurant is high quality and high end for the area - we enjoyed eating there and also exploring the tavernas in the nearby village of Afissos. Massages are great value, and we had a great experience with the diver centre next door, too. Overall, highly recommended!
Overall experience was 9/10 and we would definitely return. Service could not have been better - owners, waiting staff, cleaners, grounds people. This is a well run operation which offers great service delivered with real authenticity. The food was very good and a treat to be steps away from the sea and our room. If anything I think menu felt a little limited after a week but the other factors made up for that. Hosts and staff gave great advice on the area. We particularly enjoyed the Hellenic scenic tram and the nearby Kostas restaurant. When returning we’d spend 2 or more nights in Thessaloniki. It has a great vibe and great food scene. The drive to Six Keys was very straightforward and we were really happy that we chose to hire a car for the duration, Booking through i-escape was very smooth and hassle free. You are my go to service for the majority of my holidays.
We fell in love with this place immediately! Everything about Six Keys was exactly what we wanted. It was paradise… Beautiful setting, great food, lovely people and service. If you want a relaxed and fabulous place to chill out, this is the place to be. We will definately be going back as soon as possible! THANKYOU for a great stay Six Keys.
Wonderful stay – best food we have had in Greece, lovely staff and beautiful setting.
We had a lovely time here. Really great and friendly service and we loved the fact that is an area which is relatively undiscovered by tourists. The breakfast was amazing. Dinner was great too, but it is worth trying out some of the local restaurants.
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