Reviewed by
Michael Cullen
When you come across a house designed - and in this case largely reconstructed - by a successful architect as her dream holiday home, you know you're onto a good thing. Gorgeous airy living rooms which flow into each other, canopied beds with windowfuls of Aegean sea framed by wrought-iron balconies, ceiling beams painted in warm dove greys, polished concrete floors which gleam in the dappled sunlight from chestnut trees outside... I challenge you to find a more graceful, aesthetically pleasing house on the Pelion peninsula.
But the Athens-based owners are not remotely precious about letting their house out. They leave board games and novels, a table football outside the kids' bedroom, beautiful lamps and porcelain, and a kitchenful of equipment that will cope with the challenge of extended family dinners, indoor or out. You can use the wonderful stone-built barbecue too, and the separate outhouse if 4 bedrooms aren't enough. It may not have a pool, but there are shady semi-wild gardens with plenty of spots for al fresco lazing, and 3 of Pelion's loveliest coves within 10 minutes' drive. The handsome stone village of Tsangarada is just up the hill, for tavernas and shops.
But the Athens-based owners are not remotely precious about letting their house out. They leave board games and novels, a table football outside the kids' bedroom, beautiful lamps and porcelain, and a kitchenful of equipment that will cope with the challenge of extended family dinners, indoor or out. You can use the wonderful stone-built barbecue too, and the separate outhouse if 4 bedrooms aren't enough. It may not have a pool, but there are shady semi-wild gardens with plenty of spots for al fresco lazing, and 3 of Pelion's loveliest coves within 10 minutes' drive. The handsome stone village of Tsangarada is just up the hill, for tavernas and shops.
Highs
- This part of Pelion offers a magical combination of mountain and sea, from cool beech-cloaked summits to a rugged turquoise coast ripe for snorkelling and kayaking
- Footpaths link many of the handsome stone villages; one leads from your door down to Damouhari (which you might recognise from Mamma Mia)
- Astonishing value for money, especially if you use all 6 bedrooms (4 in the main house, 2 in the outhouse), though it's still affordable for a family of 4-5
- The house only features on a couple of select websites, so you've a good chance of finding availability
Lows
- There's no pool (not many of Pelion's restored mountain houses have one)
- A bit of a devil to reach: on the far side of Mt. Pelion, with only sporadic flights into the nearest airport (Volos)
- Only one twin-bedded room at present, and only 2 shared bathrooms (3 if you include the outhouse)
- The access drive is very steep - not for tiny hire cars, though you can park on the road and walk up (100m)
- The outhouse is simpler, and sometimes gets a damp patch around the stairwell (but not the bedrooms; and it's repainted each year)
Best time to go
The house is available year-round, apart from a few weeks which are set aside for the owner. The hills remain refreshingly cool throughout the summer, though don't expect to have the coves at Fakistra and Damouhari to yourselves! June and September are ideal, especially if you fancy doing some hiking or biking. Spring comes late here - typically early May. Winter weekends can be surprisingly busy as city folk head up in the hope of snow; but midweek it's empty. The house has central heating and fireplaces, and the ski station of Agriolefkes normally operates from January to March.